Journeyman
"And this one is just right" ~ Goldilocks
Sharing my experience here changing the air and fuel filter and inspecting the spark plugs.
Refer to the manual for the basics, but here are things that may help, along with some very surprising discoveries I made...
1) Removing the tank
There are three things to disconnect besides the bolt at the front of the tank and the rear.
This hose is under the front right of the tank- just pull it off. It's the smaller one that has some sharp bends in it.
The fuel line requires fuel line pliers
Push the clip back and squeeze carefully while pulling up on the connection. It's plastic- hoping for a third party metal replacement to come out. It's gonna break at some point down the road, for sure. Other Triumphs have this problem.
Start lifting the tank and in the middle underneath is an electrical connection. Lift enough to get to the connection and with your third hand push down on this little tab to release the connection between the two halves of the plug. If you haven't dropped the tank you'll be happy and looking at...
The left side is pretty bare and a good place to run accessory wires to lights, etc.
The right side is jam packed with "stuff." Take lots of photos so you know how to route things when putting the coils and evap canister back on.
To get to the air filter among other things you'll need to swing the right end of this hose out and to the left from under the breather box.
After struggling in tight spaces trying to release all those hose clamps (above) I got the cutting wheel out and made some hose pliers. Saves a ton of time and frustration. Also good on the fuel filter lines. Getting the air filter box off the frame was a bit fiddly. It was definitely time to replace the filter.
My plugs look lean and I'm running @Penner 's richer tune. If you haven't loaded that, you should!
I was very suprised that the plugs were just barely tighter than hand tight! That, and the spark plug wire boots were literally just resting on the plugs- not attached! WTF?
The hardest part of this whole project was successfully pushing those boots down until they clicked onto the plugs. No wonder they gave up on the assembly line! The frame is in the way and prevents you from getting good leverage. I used a number of different hacks to create a way to push. I'm riding tomorrow and feel that it has to run better with the proper installation.
Oh, and you're going to need a 14mm spark plug socket. I ordered this magnetic one with a swivel. I think the swivel came in handy when inserting or removing the socket with a short extension on. Tighten plugs to 12 Nm (NOT finger tight)!
Continued.........
Refer to the manual for the basics, but here are things that may help, along with some very surprising discoveries I made...
1) Removing the tank
There are three things to disconnect besides the bolt at the front of the tank and the rear.
The fuel line requires fuel line pliers
Start lifting the tank and in the middle underneath is an electrical connection. Lift enough to get to the connection and with your third hand push down on this little tab to release the connection between the two halves of the plug. If you haven't dropped the tank you'll be happy and looking at...
The left side is pretty bare and a good place to run accessory wires to lights, etc.
The right side is jam packed with "stuff." Take lots of photos so you know how to route things when putting the coils and evap canister back on.
To get to the air filter among other things you'll need to swing the right end of this hose out and to the left from under the breather box.
After struggling in tight spaces trying to release all those hose clamps (above) I got the cutting wheel out and made some hose pliers. Saves a ton of time and frustration. Also good on the fuel filter lines. Getting the air filter box off the frame was a bit fiddly. It was definitely time to replace the filter.
My plugs look lean and I'm running @Penner 's richer tune. If you haven't loaded that, you should!
I was very suprised that the plugs were just barely tighter than hand tight! That, and the spark plug wire boots were literally just resting on the plugs- not attached! WTF?
The hardest part of this whole project was successfully pushing those boots down until they clicked onto the plugs. No wonder they gave up on the assembly line! The frame is in the way and prevents you from getting good leverage. I used a number of different hacks to create a way to push. I'm riding tomorrow and feel that it has to run better with the proper installation.
Oh, and you're going to need a 14mm spark plug socket. I ordered this magnetic one with a swivel. I think the swivel came in handy when inserting or removing the socket with a short extension on. Tighten plugs to 12 Nm (NOT finger tight)!
Continued.........
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