Which sensors disable ignition and injection?

TURBO200R4 said:

i do not think that tuneecu will help much with this problem.
what we are trying to do is replace or substitute battery power 12 volts to bypass the ignition switch in case that might be a problem.
disconect the two terminals on coil then test with volt meter the one with 8 to 12 volts will be the one that you will hook the (battery jumper wire) to this will give you 12 volts from the battery to the coils and the rest of the bike.
using the diagram you posted will be battery jumper wire to hook to coil number 26 inside coil terminal the one that you checked for voltage. the brown and pink wire.
try to start again and give us some voltage readings.
hth

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cskals said:

Just pulled a log from tuneecu, it doesn't seem like, when cranking, that the rpm get registered, is this normal?
And the "Main relay" does not have any indication of red/yellow/green state.

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TURBO200R4 said:

i do not know how desperate you are
you could pull starter remove the positive cable and replace with short cable then install starter.
this way you can use jumper cables to a car/truck to turn over motor and the battery would be putting 12 volts into coils and the rest of the system.

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tywal said:

Not sure about what's different on Classic R3 but ECM pin A20 on the R3T also feeds power to the Lambda/O2 sensor, the Purge Valve (on models with canister), the 3 relay coils for fuel pump, engine management and cooling fan AND all 3 ignition coils and fuel injectors. Any one of those could be pulling/loading the A20 line down. Also a problem in the wiring between could be causing low voltage on the A20 line. Eliminating items one by one will be tedious but may be the only way forward.

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TURBO200R4 said:

That is what mechanics is about you trying different things hopping for results that will lead you to a solution to fix the problem or a least by pass the problem so you can get some riding in.
It is very nice when somebody says change this part and then your bike runs perfect but that doesn't always work. Most of the time you have to put in the work checking components and sometimes you have to guess.
I don't always explain the reason for what I post i just through the information out there and if they want to use it they can and if they don't then so be it.
The reasoning behind separating the starter from the rest of the electrical system is because the starter draws more amperage than the rest of the bike so if you take that amperage off the system then the system will have a few more volts and it may start.
So by changing parts you eliminate that the part you change may or msy not be the problem.
I think that most of the guys with our problem just gives up and sells or parts out the bike. At least on mine i have found a way to get it started and bypass the problem so i can ride.
Hth

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