Well that was a wasted afternoon!..Riser Install.


They are correct. I would be all done if it weren't for the short ABS brake line.
 
I discovered in doing some searching on the forum that there was already some discussion that addressed my issue. Some solutions were offered here.

Longer Front Brake Line for 2016 R3T

I still think a better option might be just to move the line to behind the top fork tree.

I have two questions that maybe someone can answer. 1st...Has anyone moved the brake line to put it behind the tree? 2nd...If I have to remove the banjo from the master cylinder to move the line and after the reinstall then bleed the front brakes, will I also have to bleed the ABS?
 
Moving the brake lines won’t work without a lot of work.

Bleeding the new setup I propose may be as simple as attach it all, fill, and hang the MC above the level of the new joint overnight...potentially.

That’s why I said I might have a way, I’ll test out and have a write up in the next week.

Since I have new Calipers for the Daytona in the mail, I can put the Rocket’s brakes back on and fully test this out very soon.
 

My plan was to remove the banjo and install a M10 flange bolt and nut on it ASAP to keep fluid loss to a minimum.
Same goes for the MC while I reroute the line. Then reconnect the lines keeping fluid loss and air incursion to a minimum. Then bleeding each of the front brake lines as usual before doing anything about the ABS. This is as per the manuals instructions...brake calipers first before ABS

I am going to fabricate a looped cable retainer and attach it to the back side of the tree much like my Valkyrie had on it for holding the cables. It was a nice easy setup. I got some stainless rod for making them and the back side of the tree looks easy to drill and tap for a button head mounting screw.

Looks like I'll have to put a new clutch cable on because of the hard plastic on the ferrule I trashed. I have a new stock one but I guess I'll order the extra length one and keep the stock replacement for a spare. Let me know how you make out.
 
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Yikes. I exchanged a phone text with Claviger yesterday on the subject in which asked if I had ABS on my 09. Now I know why he asked and thankfully answered a big NO! ABS complicates any modifications to brake lines.
 
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I’ve found the solution for all with abs:

Single Banjo Bolt with Bleed Screw, 10mm x 1.25 Thread - Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies

Install the 3an to 3/16 fitting to the top hardline, Remove the BS triumph original. Install the 10mm to 3an banjo fitting with this banjo bolt. Install the 30” 3an line between the two 3an fittings.

Fill the Master cylinder, don’t pull lever. Connect vacuum bleeder to banjo bleed point, suck till you get fluid coming up from the line. Bleed as normal.

Profit.

An ABS bleed routine wouldn’t hurt but I think it can be done without being required.

Will report back
 

I like the bleeder banjo bolt. Not sure I understand the rest. The new longer clutch cable is on order along with a vacuum bleeder.off Amazon. When I get all my ducks in a row I'll try it again.
 

Not sure what that is but I installed bleedable banjo bolts on the master cylinders on both my VStrom DL1000 and DL650 and they are great. Tape the brake lever to the handlebar overnight, crack the banjo in morning and any air in the brake line is purged. I get them from SV Racing in Bellingham.

I'm trying to find if anyone makes them for the Rockets, so perhaps the one from Pegasus is it. I'm wondering if they are common banjos on all metric bikes. I just have to learn the size/thread of the ones supplied by SV Racing to compare.
 
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