Hi all.
I have excessive noise from my valves when I ride in the low RPM range.
Anything below 1700ish RPM creates a distinct noise from the valves, and it disappears as soon as the RPM comes over 1700ish.
I think it's weird, and can't help thinking if it has something to do with the ignition table?
I run the 20228, with no changes in the tables.
I had the valves adjusted a couple of thousand km ago, so they should be spot on.
56k miles.
I did the adjustment.
No, it didn't start after the adjustment, but has started to get worse the last couple of runs, maybe it got worse after I uploaded the new map
Hi again.
Didn't see the last question regarding timing chain.
I have suspected it, and also tried to get the tensioner to get tighter by putting it in 1st gear, on a steep road facing upwards, but no change.
Is it possible to check the tensioner without taking the top of?
Hi again.
Didn't see the last question regarding timing chain.
I have suspected it, and also tried to get the tensioner to get tighter by putting it in 1st gear, on a steep road facing upwards, but no change.
Is it possible to check the tensioner without taking the top of?
It could be that the shaft or pin in the tensioner needs to be replaced. Many of us with 2.3s went to manual tensioners.
As to removing the tensioner for inspection without removing the valve cover I don't think so, but wondering if you went in through the "window" for setting the timing if you could hold tension on the chain there while someone else quickly swapped out the tensioner. This is a question that @warp9.9 could easily answer here....
A word for the wise Bikes running perfect thanks again for the input with my clutch fix, today I decided to check the cam plunger to my shock horror it was 24mm with only 25000 miles I read it tops out at 25mm so not much point putting a spacer??? bikes has no issues rattles or the likes just...
In my opinion the only to change the tensioner while keeping tension and timing would be to go down thru the top of the cam cover in the front. This way you could hold pressure on the cam chain tensioner of the guide. Using the arch of the guide against the chain so it keeps the chain tight on all the gears.
I'm afraid going thru the inspection hole will not give you the leverage needed to hold it. Remember there will be tension on the chain from the pressure generated by the partially opened intake and exhaust valves.
I also would use a Dial indicator to monitor the valve opening. This would allow me to double check cam placement to make sure nothing has changed timing wise.
Hope this helps.
If I were to ponder a bit more and didn't want a manual adjustment as a retired Tool Maker can see a couple possible ways to modify the OEM tensioner.
As for maual tensioner's I've had my hands on the APE and on Neville Lush's both work. If I had the choice would choose Nev's if they are still available.