Update...broke down yet again

stingray said:

The gas cap issue is new. Ever since new it throws codes and sputters when ridden hard. First time was about 3 miles from the dealership upon purchase. My code reader says it is the IMU. The bike shows OCTC Disabled and OCABS Disabled on the TFT. Then it sputters and dies. Every time I ride it like I bought it for. Now ride like a little girl and all is fine. I don't ride like that.

Click to expand...

What is the code/codes number
You might try to wot in second and see if it will run it out of gas can you test in neutral at 5000 rpm for a couple of seconds?
Problem defective fuel pump/ plugged strainer or improperly installed
If it does the problem every time then spend the day at the dealership
Every time they clear codes then take it out and set another code till they get the idea to fix the problem.
Diagnose problem install gas pressure gauge and wot
So good or bad you narrow down the causes.
The problem with letting a prob go is that sooner or later you get another prob. I just hate it when a customer comes in with 3 or 4 problems and says i have a problem with the transmission so three hours later i am trying to figure out what is causing the problem.

stingray said:

Could be. Or I wonder if the spark plug boots are on correctly reading another thread.

Click to expand...

That was my thread here...

but I doubt that's the issue. Mine ran well despite that, although I corrected it. You may be able to get to a wire or two without lifting the tank and could reach in with long hemostats or similar to gently pull up and see if, at least that one, is loose. If so it'll come right up and just letting it drop down will put it where it was before. But, I'm guessing that is not the problem in your case.

Have you tried seeing if it will turn over without pulling in the clutch yet? If so, you have a bad clutch switch and the bike always thinks the lever is pulled in. That little switch does a whole lot more than you would imagine including, but not limited to, the gas gauge.

So I now have my bike back from the dealer. All tests, checks and diagnostics came back negative. Before my new battery arrived, 2 old batteries were used to start the bike which it did perfectly without issue.
So, due to the original battery being basically 2 years old and never charged or maintained by me, was that the issue?
Or did riding it with loose connections give intermittent shortages and damage the battery?
We have had record wet weather the last 2 years causing many weeks to pass without starting or charging the bike. I only used it during the last 18 months for short, stop-start trips. 1 or 2 long day rides is really all I've done.
Also of note the new battery today is blue, not the original yuasa black. Since it came directly from Triumph, is it an upgraded replacement for the OEM? Yuasa Australia stated they don't import the YTX20CH-BS anymore. Perhaps Triumph have a better option now.
It now cranks and starts MUCH quicker than it ever did. Maybe my old battery was giving up long before it finally did.
I now have a new Optimate charger to use at the suggestion of Triumph and my dealership
Anyway, the bike is home now where it belongs.....
UPDATE!!!!!!!!!!!
....uh oh, now it cranks but won't start. 2 or 3 starter presses to get it to go. Then 1 hour later I thought I'd try again, 1 lazy crank, screen went black again for a split second, then started. Seems the glitch is still there just not as bad.
I can't ride it like this knowing it might happen again.
Back to the dealer tomorrow and ask if they'll buy it off me at a big loss for me.
I don't have the time, money or patience anymore.

Sorry to hear it is not working out for you.

I did a little research and was told by a Triumph rep that the key fob needs to be kept away from the bike far enough so the fob and the ecu are NOT connecting while the bike is parked/stored. He also suggested turning off the master switch (for the bikes that have it).

Idaho Red Rocket 3 said:

Sorry to hear it is not working out for you.

I did a little research and was told by a Triumph rep that the key fob needs to be kept away from the bike far enough so the fob and the ecu are NOT connecting while the bike is parked/stored. He also suggested turning off the master switch (for the bikes that have it).

Click to expand...

Exactly why I got rid of the keyless ignition on my bike, total pain in the ass. I have always lived rural, I never take any keys out of any vehicle, every time I'd get on the bike, I'd realize the keys were in the house to keep from killing batteries. Hated it. We have a new Chevy Trailblazer, it's annoying that the horn beeps every time you get out because keys are in it. Always seemed like keyless ignitions were a solution looking for a problem, why?
Like touch screens on appliances, they are always the first thing to stop working, and are non repairable.

I love modern technology?

I was wondering if @DEcosse could make a system to REMOVE the Triumph keyless system for the new 2.5L Rockets. Seams the Triumph keyless system just doesn't work very well. BTW: A keyless ignition is not anything I am wanting. I see too many of you guys having ridiculous problems with it. At least Triumph needs to address this annoying and sales killing problem in the first update.

Idaho Red Rocket 3 said:

I was wondering if @DEcosse could make a system to REMOVE the Triumph keyless system for the new 2.5L Rockets. Seams the Triumph keyless system just doesn't work very well. BTW: A keyless ignition is not anything I am wanting. I see too many of you guys having ridiculous problems with it. At least Triumph needs to address this annoying and sales killing problem in the first update.

Click to expand...

It seems to me they have a lot more sales-killing problems than keyless ignition, just not enough ppl are aware of them... Their solution? Here, there you have a new, more expensive, chrome edition

Idaho Red Rocket 3 said:

Sorry to hear it is not working out for you.

I did a little research and was told by a Triumph rep that the key fob needs to be kept away from the bike far enough so the fob and the ecu are NOT connecting while the bike is parked/stored. He also suggested turning off the master switch (for the bikes that have it).

Click to expand...

My FOB is at least 10 metres from where the bike is stored. I also make sure its off when I'm not using it.
They've replaced the oem yuasa battery with a dynavolt gel battery. The specifications seem about the same. I know they did reflash my ecu which may or may not explain the cranking but not starting issue. I'm guessing that's a fuel issue. When I hit starter the 2nd time, it starts normally but it "chugs" to life, meaning just getting enough fuel to start which maybe a map/closed loop glitch. Not fun getting on a bike knowing it might not start and if it does, you might not make it home.
But at least Triumph have my 30k though and are doing well.
That's what really matters...

Planet3 said:

My FOB is at least 10 metres from where the bike is stored. I also make sure its off when I'm not using it.
They've replaced the oem yuasa battery with a dynavolt gel battery. The specifications seem about the same. I know they did reflash my ecu which may or may not explain the cranking but not starting issue. I'm guessing that's a fuel issue. When I hit starter the 2nd time, it starts normally but it "chugs" to life, meaning just getting enough fuel to start which maybe a map/closed loop glitch. Not fun getting on a bike knowing it might not start and if it does, you might not make it home.
But at least Triumph have my 30k though and are doing well.
That's what really matters...

Click to expand...

I’m just glad I have not had that experience with my TFC. I can’t abide a bike that is not reliable. I have had to change out my battery and fob battery on a two year old bike. Once or twice it cranked quickly but took a few seconds to fire up. All that has cleared up on its own. These modern bikes can be fickle.