TuneEcu Maps Explained

be blessed brother
Thanks but I'd rather you pray for the surgeon he is the one thats doing the work I just got to lay around.

Anyway bud made it thru already pondering how long before I can start fixing things, or is it a good excuse to either buy another extra one or one or maybe a Speed Twin 1200 for the weight savings and time
Anyway thanks for keeping a eye on me in the woods, my cellmate likes goats. And we were in WBGV
 
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Hallelujah! Bumping an old thread here, but there has been a wealth of information about this new Tune ECU tuning tool I would like to use. DDT, as I went through 5 pages of this thread, I was waiting for someone to lay down the basic concepts that make everything else so much easier to understand. Thanks for your input. And yes, I would love to read (learn) anything you would like to say about ignition timing tables!
My experience is with TTS Mastertune (Harleys) and HP Tuners (Corvettes). My goal (and, I think, the biggest area of improvement on these bikes) is to move the super lean closed-loop areas of the AFR table closer to 13.8/1 to prevent the missing/surging at smaller throttle openings. Questions are:
1. Does Tune ECU offer any data logging segment that would help us accurately modify the Volumetric Efficiency tables (F&L) if we make modifications that might affect airflow (better flowing mufflers, open airbox, cams etc)?
2. In TTS Mastertune, if I change a cell in the AFR table to be anything other than 14.7 (14.5 in Tune ECU), it removes that cell from closed-loop configuration (which is why the VE tables need to be accurate), basically turning that cell into a carburetor jet. Is this true for Tune ECU as well?
3. If I want to maintain ECU control with the closed loop, but not run as lean, I would normally have an O2 Bias Voltage table. On my '01 BMW R1100RT (non programmable ECU) I use an AF-XiED wired in series with the O2 data signal. Both modify the voltage from the O2 sensor to the ECU to cause the ECU to add slightly more injector timing in closed-loop mode, effectively allowing ECU control, but at 13.8-14.0/1. Is there an O2 Bias Voltage table in Tune ECU?
Thank you for any input/knowledge. Jon
 
1: No.
2: Sort of, depends on if you leave the o2 sensor enabled. Keihen ECUs don't constantly use closed loop, only in specific sections where the narrowband target table is set to a tight range (can't recall exactly what, like 14.3-14.7 or something like that). It then applies these correction factors to the whole table. The ability to adapt is primitive and essentially non-functional on anything besides a stock bike.
3: There is no O2 bias table in TuneECU, its very basic software, essentially a GUI for a hexeditor with encryption defeat and IO management, that's it. While the functionality to adjust base sensor voltage ranges and values no doubt exists in the ECU itself, it's not been located in the hex file so no interface to adjust it is provided.

EDIT: THAT SAID.... if one were inclined to do some Ohms law math, one could use a small circuit to create a pullup that slightly raises the sensor output voltage received by the ECU, meaning, it would cross the switch point at a richer AFR.

- Further:
The Keihen O2 system control is absolute trash compared to more modern systems, ignore it. You will always a have the best results by disabling the O2 sensor in TuneECU and getting a proper tune. The stock ECU targets Lambda of 1.0, pretty much everywhere, it's a lean burn design for emissions. If you tune it and leave the O2 enabled it will continuously adjust and over time work its way back towards Lambda of 1.0 as long as the adjustment required is within the adjustment range of the ECU. There is no scenario where the O2 enabled is better with a custom tune, even for emissions control checks in MOT or CA annual testing, as the O2 being disabled does not trigger a ready warning, it fully disables the circuit and check for it. That includes a wideband using a narrowband simulated 0-1v output. The simulated output will only help the ECU counteract your custom tune.
 
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2.3 R3s use a single map sensor with timing identification to find a home signal so it knows when #1 is at TDC on the compression stroke. It then knows the next pulse is #2 and the next after that is #3, this is why R3s will always rotate the engine at least 3 times firing on the 4th rotation after a power cycle before firing. It looks for crank position trigger for TDC then for the pulse from #1 within a time window after TDC to identify #1 cylinder. It's quite sloppy about home signal timing too, otherwise a built motor like mine wouldn't work with stock ECU with very not-stock MAP signal pulse size and timing.

It does not use MAP for timing (or fuel in F tables much) because it's a large bore ITB setup, 52mm at the throttle plate. Large bore ITBs have too little MAP variance at low openings and reach atmo pressure quickly, but well before full throttle. As a result the resolution is terrible, thus Alpha-N. You can call it hybrid if you it makes you feel better, but with F-L Switch table set to 0, the L tables have less than 1% influence on the fueling, aka straight up Alpha N. A few members and I went through a lot of work trying to improve the hybrid functionality by blending L and F crossover values, it's terribly finnicky and not at all worth the effort, a clean Alpha-N tune just plain works better.

You need 3 sensors to run a 2.3 R3 engine:
Map sensor
TPS sensor
Crank sensor

The others can be disconnected and the bike will still run, IAT/CLT/BARO/VSS/2nd Throttle TPS. Not only will it still run, it'll still run with no constraints on RPM etc. It's a dumb system that is the very epitome of garbage in garbage out; if you give it bad values in the table, you'll get bad values from it, if you give it good values, you get good results. For those who have their bikes tuned, it's great in a way, it does exactly what you tell it, but that's also a constraint as it's limited to the temp/baro correction values the factory hardcoded into it (and those values are not correct with 2.3 R3s routinely growing progressively more lean as air temperatures rise beyond 90f).

All this is why I'm going to a standalone, I'm sick of an awesome engine being hamstrung by an ECU that would be the very left end of the bell curve if one existed for ECUs. It is a solid ECU for its era, but that era was 25 years ago and motorcycle tech was 15 years behind automotive tech so it's really more like the TPI computers from the 80s than anything else.

About 5 minutes in he explains why MAP control is a bad option for ITB engines. The bigger your cam the worse the effect as starting vacuum levels are lower, thus MAP resolution is lower.

Sneaky edit:
This is why someday, I'll own my own dyno, so I can demonstrate this stuff.
 
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