TuneECU -- HOW TO

@warp9.9 and @Claviger thank you both gentlemen.

The popping was not bothering me (I actually liked it) but I read here somewhere that too lean can be damaging because engine runs hotter which again, based on my non-scientific method was proven to be the case.

Anyhow its running ok now (I think) and there is no popping and it seems to run cooler. My only regret is that why didn't I do this 2 years ago when I first bought the bike. The rumbling sound of this engine is hypnotizing.
 
Drmatt357 said:
Is the Amazon cable still a viable option VS the one from the UK and where is the head lamp fuse?
Click to expand...

I had the same option as you... Amazon or lonelec.
I bought the one from:

Lonelec

because I knew that it will work. It shipped really quickly compared to where it's located... UK.

It worked without hassle.

Take the fuse panel cover off and flip it over. The illustration on the cover will tell you where the fuse is located.

That's what I used to find it. If you have a battery charger you can hook it to the battery while you tune. I actually take the fuse out and hook the battery charger up just to keep everything at full capacity.
 

Thanks for this Mully. I ordered from from Lonelec as I looked in this thread and people had issues with the Amazon cord and needed to solder parts.

I'm looking at the TuneECU download page and see there is a link for FTDI drivers. Do I need that? or just the or just the TuneECU software which is up to 2.5.8 at this time? (I'm running Windows 7)
 
I didn't have to load any drivers with mine -- apparently Windows "knew" enough to make it run.

Keep us posted, please.
 
For anyone who wants to know, I think the Android version of TuneECU will cycle the ABS solenoids for brake bleeding purposes. I do not have ABS so I've no need of that function but I think I saw it recently while fussing with other functions.
 
rocketjohn said:
For anyone who wants to know, I think the Android version of TuneECU will cycle the ABS solenoids for brake bleeding purposes. I do not have ABS so I've no need of that function but I think I saw it recently while fussing with other functions.
Click to expand...

This is good info, if true. Would save having to also mess with the Dealer Tool.
 
It's amazing how different some of the models are. On my 2013, only had to pull the one fuse, to cut the headlights. On my new to me 2005, I pulled the headlight fuse, but there were still some smaller lights on, so had to pull a second fuse, to get all the lights off. Then when I was done with TuneECU, it wouldn't crank until I put the headlight fuse back in. I've read that some triumph models have a daytime running light, AND separate headlights, and some European models have a switch on the handle bars to turn off the headlights if you want. I want to incorporate a switch that will shut off ALL the lights, head, tail, and brake, in the event that I want to pull off the road at night, without advertising where I am. I know, I'm bad. So are speeding tickets!
 
I don't know bout DRL's, but in Virginia...motorcycle headlights must burn continuously day and night, and a DRL function would not be adequate since most DRL circuits use the high beam at low voltage. During daylight that would be nothing on a motorcycle. I use high beam during the day, and then flip up and down according to traffic at night.
 
Reactions: MIG
How do you confirm that you have loaded a tune from a hump drive to the bike? Is there a save command at the end of the download?
 
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