Tires etc.

When the time comes I guess I’ll be trying the cruisetec’s. Shame the avons are not an option anymore and I’m not going with the exedra, the last thing I need is for the bike to be even higher.
 
Hw does it tip in with the bigger tyres? Easier, harder or much the same?

Can't say I can see any issues with the rear fender clearance, though it's hard to tell from the pics.
Tip in, radius?
Turn radius us controled by lean angle, not tires.
Raising the rear axle .5" is good on these motors as it reduces the trail and quickens the steering.
Lowering the front axke .5" is even better to more improve the handling of the monster.
 
some correction to your lean angle statement…
lean angle comes from grip - more grip results in tighter turn radius. tires play a crucial role in improving lean angle by providing the necessary grip and contact patch for cornering. The tire's profile also affects how much lean angle is possible, with taller, V-shaped tires providing a larger contact patch and increasing responsiveness and lean angle.
 
Not the turning radius, but lightness of steering and the willingness to transition to a given lean angle from the vertical - ie. does it dive into a turn easily or need conscious countersteer to get it to lean, to "tip". Effected by the shape of the tyre's profile, both at the front and the rear, and the match (or mis-match) in profile shape between front and rear.
Examples of profile shape being in simplified terms:
sports tyre - sharp end of an egg in cross-section.
Sports touring tyre - blunt end of an egg.
Cruiser/heavy tourer tyre - side of an egg.

I only ask because if your change the profile size number, ie. the depth of the carcass in proportion to the tyre's width, you usually change the profile shape - ie. the curvature of the tyre in cross section. This can have a dramatic effect on the percieved lightness of steering and the bike's eagerness to adopt lean angles. It can also effect how the bike behaves under power through a turn. For instance, on the first generation Ducati X-Diavel (I haven't ridden the latest model), while the bike would tip in readily enough when you set it into a turn, if you wound on the power through the turn as you often do on long fast bends, it felt like the bike was trying to sit up and you had to apply conscious weight to the inside bar through countersteer to get to to maintain its line. The Harley Breakout with the enormous rear tyre it's been given for style purposes does this to an even greater extent, as does the Fat Boy which is also reluctant to commit to the turn in the first place, but that's more because of the fat front tyre and the increased gyroscopic inertia caused by the solid wheels.

It might sound like I'm being at bit arcane and pedantic, but the reason I ask this question is because it strikes me Triumph absolutely nailed the steering feel on the R3, in large part with clever use of steering geometry at the headstock with the off-set yokes.
I'm particularly impressed with the way you can roll off or lay serious power on through turns without the bike wanting to sit up or deviate from its line, a tendancy that should be exacerbated by the torque reaction from the longitudinal engine lay-out. This is one of the things that makes these big bikes feel so agile and yet so planted and thus so satisfying to ride. I can see how that would change if you altered the rear profile size and hence the relationship between rake and trail, and I just wondered if this was the case.

Edit: I should add that this matter is a very personal thing. Some people love bikes that leap headfirst into lean angles. Some people hate it and feel it makes the bike skittish. They prefer it to roll in more slowly. A good example is those people who fit Michelin Road 5's to sports tourers and adventure bikes because they return very good tyre life, but then find it makes the bike feel too flightly. That's because the R5's have a sports tyre profile and as soon as you tip the bike in it feels like it wants to go straight onto the tyre's edge. This suits some riders and some bikes but is off-putting to others.
 
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I've got Cobra Chromes on mine & a brand new set ready for when needed. I really appreciate the feel & grip I get from them. I checked the date on both the new tires & they're 2023 vintage (think both are 24th week too) so nearly 2 years old, but that's fine, 5 - 7 years is getting up there though & they will have been used up well before then.

Great write up Gimlet!
 
I prefer cobras as well but what issues you are facing with Cruisetec on rocket 3R ? its coming from factory on new rockets. Have you found any issues in cornering or something else?
Hi Sunny,

I haven't yet tested Cruisetec on my Rocket, which still has the original Cobras. I have the original Cruisetecs on my Indian Challenger, and while the front is pretty decent, the rear is catastrophic on this bike: the tire spins in first and second gear in the dry and all the way down to fifth in the wet... I'm the king of drifting on this bike!

But, again, it's an Indian, not a Rocket. Given that the Avons are no longer produced, it's almost certain I'll fit Cruisetecs up front and Bridgestones in the back to improve the beast's handling.

Finally, to answer everyone, absolutely EVERYTHING affects the behavior and handling of a motorcycle (fork angle, fork settings, oil used, shock quality, shock settings, tire type, inflation, riding style, chassis quality, etc.).

First of all, if I can change the tires on my Rocket for the ones of my choice before riding on the rim, I'd be happy...

Frankly, Avon is a pain in the ass.
 
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