Throttle sticking Idle probem.

I had a 2006 standard, had the idle up/stall issue, scary running into corners with the revs up bike only had 10 to 12000kms on it at the time, in the end the dealer swapped the ecu out on the demo bike, no more problems after that.................
But now I have a 2010 roadster with sort of similar problem................
when you back the throttle off bike want s to run on, doesn't actually rev any higher, just doesn't die quick enough compared to 2006 model, basicilly lacks engine braking, dealer says thats how they are now, but it makes my arse twitch when flying into a corner that I know I could get round before with no brakes

I recall someone else mentioning this or something similar not all that long ago. Can't remember who it was, but I think it was identified as something Roadsters do rather than a problem per se. Anyone?

That must be some part of the design for meeting new emission standards. It's just typical to put a few hydrocarbons above rider safety, I have a sneaking suspicion the R3 engine is on it's last legs and eventually just wont meet the requirements to import. **** shame.

But ... maybe if that happens mine's value will go up. LOL

Had this problem for several months now & she has been to the dealers on a few occasions. At last we seem to have made headway, I got her back with nothing having been done because during the week that they had the bike it never once showed the fault. On my ride home it started revving at 2300, I turned around & within 1 mile of the dealer it dropped to normal idle speed so with no fault to show them I set off again for home. 2 miles down the road & she's revving at 3000 again, I turn around & head back to dealer again & this time she was still revving at 2500. Straight on to the computer for diagnostics check & no fault shows up, in fact it showed as running near perfect except revving at 2300. This at least told him where not to look, so he had a good idea where the problem may lie. Over 2 days he removed the baffle shafts and cleaned them as he suspected them sticking, he fitted a new TPS even though showing ok on diagnostics the throttle position to get 2300 revs is only 2 Degrees, this is within tolerance for the tps but would of course cause over revving. He also adjusted the clearance between the stepper motor & the thrust plate (apparently the Triumph tolerance is critical.I think this is all that was done, & he strongly feels that keeping the shafts clean is the answer to this problem. It certainly seems to have sorted the problem for me & the bike is running so much better & the cold start problem I had is now gone also. It's a shame that he could not do just one thing at a time so as to pin point the problem area but he wanted me to have the bike back, & I wanted it back & working, I don't expect this to be very useful to others but it's my experience with this idle problem.

I had what sounds like a problem similar to several of the posts on this thread - revs would stay 1800-2000 and would not return to idle. It turned out to be a low tech issue. The twist grip was binding on the bar end weight and wouldn't allow the throttle to return to the idle position.

Mine was idling at 2000 rpm, and choking on the highway. took it to the shop, and they told me it was the electronic part of the throttle body, and then told me that they would
have to replace the whole assembly at 2000 dollars. I told them to put it back together, and i'm taking her home. I'l figure something out. i'm going to try and replace a few parts. Why the
hell do they have to replace the whole assembly? WTF. What a burn. I looked online and I could buy the assembly for 1200, i'm not sure if i can do it myself.

outriders58 said:

Mine was idling at 2000 rpm, and choking on the highway. took it to the shop, and they told me it was the electronic part of the throttle body, and then told me that they would
have to replace the whole assembly at 2000 dollars. I told them to put it back together, and i'm taking her home. I'l figure something out. i'm going to try and replace a few parts. Why the
hell do they have to replace the whole assembly? WTF. What a burn. I looked online and I could buy the assembly for 1200, i'm not sure if i can do it myself.

Click to expand...

Needs a new Primary TPS and a full ISCV reset and she will per like a normal Tasmanian Devel. That's about 10 minutes of work 15 minutes if your extra cautious.

I have no idea what you just said. could you explain more

outriders58 said:

I have no idea what you just said. could you explain more

Click to expand...

Alright the primary throttle position sensor located on the rear throttle body is basically a rheostat. Your TPS is worn and sending false signals to the ECU (here is a picture of the location). The yellow line points to the primary TPS sensor. The red lines are the bottom ports of the throttle body. So to be clear the yellow line is by your left knee when sitting on the bike.


A closer view of the Primary TPS sensor remember it is on the rear throttle body. NOT THE FRONT

Scott, as usual is probably correct. More than likely your primary TPS has gone bad as it has on many earlier (pre 2009 , I think) models. Triumph replaced the bad TPS, which has a black plastic component, with an updated model, which has a blue plastic component. It costs about $150 to replace and should take no more than 1/2 hr to be installed, calibrated and tested by any competent Triumph dealership (with them, you'll have some recourse if they don't get a repair right).

I have had a TPS fail - easy fix as already stated - and experienced a problem similar to what you describe outriders58 that was caused by a broken sensor tip on the IAT (Intake Ambient Temperature sensor) on my 2007 Standard. It is located under the tank and above or along the throttle body rail where it reads hot air, not fresh air, so it's in a lousy location that can give very inaccurate readings which can cause the engine to act up as you describe. The IAT sensor does connect to the electronic throttle assembly which is quite pricey as your wrench told you, but the sensor and it's wiring connection can be had on FleaBay for under $50 bucks and is very easy to disconnect and reinstall. I have never heard of anybody's entire electronic throttle assembly failing before. The tip of the IAT sensor is red, so you might want to check to see if the tip is broken before you start randomly replacing parts. It's a good idea to relocate it anyway, placing it forward on the throttle rail where it will read fresh clean (not hot) air no matter what the cause of your problem is.

I would still surmise that your problem is likely to be a bad primary TPS, though.

Good luck and don't worry. It appears that your issue is a minor one.