Journeyman
"And this one is just right" ~ Goldilocks
I was feeling a click when I'd come to a stop and then let off the front brake. I wasn't sure if it was a sticky caliper or the steering head bearing/adjustment. After lifting the bike and rocking the front end back and forth holding the forks I could feel it, so guessing it must be the bearing.
To adjust it you need the special Triumph T3880750 Headstock Service Tool ($33)
As with everything on the 2.5s getting to where you want to go involves removing a lot of unrelated "stuff." You have to remove the display, handlebars, windscreen and cover, and upper yoke to get to the adjustment nut. Just time consuming, but not especially difficult.
I used the tool to loosen the adjustment nut and re-torque it and it feels like it may have resolved the issue. My guess is that when I went down several months ago it may have jarred the lock nut loose enough to allow the adjustment nut to back off just a bit. If not, I may be looking at a new set of bearings. I'll update if that is the case.
Here's some ugly photos for anyone curious about the procedure that is outlined in the manual....
Leave the handlebars on until you've removed the handlebar supports, but I don't think that is really necessary (removing the supports) despite what the manual says.
You unclip some connections here to allow you to pull the handlebars away, as seen below....
I used a rubber mallet and wooden block to encourage the upper yoke to come off. Dropping the forks completely would be another option.
Here's the required tool. The final torque on the adjustment nut is just 15 Nm.
The top nut (visible under the display) is 90 Nm and takes a 38mm socket.
To adjust it you need the special Triumph T3880750 Headstock Service Tool ($33)
As with everything on the 2.5s getting to where you want to go involves removing a lot of unrelated "stuff." You have to remove the display, handlebars, windscreen and cover, and upper yoke to get to the adjustment nut. Just time consuming, but not especially difficult.
I used the tool to loosen the adjustment nut and re-torque it and it feels like it may have resolved the issue. My guess is that when I went down several months ago it may have jarred the lock nut loose enough to allow the adjustment nut to back off just a bit. If not, I may be looking at a new set of bearings. I'll update if that is the case.
Here's some ugly photos for anyone curious about the procedure that is outlined in the manual....
Leave the handlebars on until you've removed the handlebar supports, but I don't think that is really necessary (removing the supports) despite what the manual says.
You unclip some connections here to allow you to pull the handlebars away, as seen below....
I used a rubber mallet and wooden block to encourage the upper yoke to come off. Dropping the forks completely would be another option.
Here's the required tool. The final torque on the adjustment nut is just 15 Nm.
The top nut (visible under the display) is 90 Nm and takes a 38mm socket.
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