SPARK PLUG Catastrophe

[the icky]

Snapped a naffing plug gettin' the bike ready for spring, now assuming I can't get the remainder out with an "easy out" I am going to have to remove the head.

Is there any advice out there with regards to getting the head off, can it be dome in situ or does the engine have to be taken out of the frame? is there life on Mars? where's the toilet? why didn't I think of that before?

Any help much appreciated thanks folks

The Icky

 

[Bishop]

Oh.... snap?

 

[vetman]

On Easter Sunday, riding a RF900 through Montana, I was passing a gal in a truck and suddenly lost a cylinder. She had a real surprised look on her face as I coasted back past her window. I pulled over and found that a spark plug had broke in half. In the back of my mind I remembered last time I put plugs in it, I probably overtorqued it, because I heard a little TICK sound that was probably the plug cracking, then it let go in the middle of nowhere. Hitchiked into a little town, amazingly a hardware store was open, bought every type of "easy out" tool they had, hitched back to the bike, said a little prayer, and the base of the plug spun right out of the head on the first try.
And no, I don't know how to take the head off a Rocket.

 

[Bishop]

I know how to GET head on a rocket.

 

[Navigator]

Snapped a naffing plug gettin' the bike ready for spring, now assuming I can't get the remainder out with an "easy out" I am going to have to remove the head.

Is there any advice out there with regards to getting the head off, can it be dome in situ or does the engine have to be taken out of the frame? is there life on Mars? where's the toilet? why didn't I think of that before?

Any help much appreciated thanks folks

The Icky

this is not an uncommon thing to happen. An easy out should do it. Sears has them aas well has auto parts stores. I'd take in a plug to ensure you get the right size and it should come out fairly easily.

 

[Triple Trouble]

Would it not be the ceramic part that snapped? Why can't you get a wrench on the steel bit that threads into the head?

 

[xhdskip]

The icky,
Can't help you with your problem, but I would like to welcome you to the forum.
Good luck, and I hope to see more posts after you work out this little snafu.

 

[the icky]

SPARK PLUG Many Thanks


Listen folks.

I am eternally grateful for all the advice and the fact I am not alone, nice to know support is out there, and so fast only put it on last night, I'll let you all know how it turns out once the "easyouts" arrive and the beast is once again subjected to my loving touch (quiet woman and pass me that large hammer).

Triple Trouble, In answer to your question sadly not, the metal casing breaks (it's wafer thin) the hex and the ceramic come out leaving an "insert" in the hole.

Being hamfisted (I have a touch like a Scottish midwife) I will no doubt grace these pages again with woes and calamities, in the meantime once again

THANK YOU, ONE AND ALL.

The Icky

 

[Triple Trouble]

In that case use plenty of grease on the easy out so that chips don't fall into the engine. Don't skimp on the easy out either. The cheap ones snap like carrots and leave you worse off. Guaranteed for life means nothing, just that they'll keep replacing the broken junk until you're tired of going back to the store.

 

[atomsplitter]

Assuming you left the remnants of the plug inside the head AND the hex head is in your hand the best way to remove the plug is using an EZ Out. First drill the remnants out with a large drill bit to relieve the stress on the threads. When the plug is torqued in properly the plug seats on the cylinder head. When torqued in improperly it galls the threads and you'll gall them worse if you attempt to remove the plug without relieving the stress on the threads in the head. (If you just snapped the top off the hex head is still usable BTW).

You can do this head on or head off. The issue head on is dropping filings and debris onto the piston. This can be removed using a vacuum nozzle pipet (not too hard to fabricate) if you opt to do it head in place. The safest way to ensure foriegn material exclusion is to take the head off. If you bugger the threads badly and need to rethread the hole it is also the easiest to get access.

I recommend when you replace your plugs (and there are six of them) you put a thin film of antiseize on the last 5 or 6 threads near the hex end. Even if you manage to over torque the plug it won't tend to seize in the head. One other note about over torquing the plug, it increses the depth of the electrodes in the cylinder. It's possible to damage the plug with the piston when you go extreme. There's a recommended torque setting range for spark plugs, don't get too wild.

Best of luck to you.