Rocket Year/Model - Advice

It is time to move on from my anemic cruisers, so a Rocket is in order. I have been scouring information on this website for the past two weeks trying to decide the right rocket year and model to buy. Time to ask for insight.

First - upon purchase the bike it is immediately going to Carpenter for a 240 kit. I spoke with Bob at length last week.

My questions are:

Transmissions - Are there years to specifically avoid or rather are there years where the trannys are more robust?

Year models – Bob indicated he did not know if he has a solution for 2013 and newer bikes regarding raising the rev limiter past 8K. Does it matter given the horse power curve decline beyond 8K? I see several threads where early years had a few issues compared to later models- anything substantial to be concerned with?

This will be my “touring” bike, so comfort is most important for me on this platform. Touring for me is long weekends, so less than 1,000 miles. The issue – it is not possible to find a Classic, Roadster, and/or Touring model near Daytona Beach, so I have to drive quite a ways to test ride each model and in different directions (not many for sale here in Florida). Does the touring model with the “narrow” tire appreciate the additional HP? Handling is all relative (compared to my other bikes), so how do the classic, roadster, and touring model compare. My impulse is to just buy the touring model, but I have no way of knowing if the classic or roadster are better for me (I know – go ride each).

Lastly, why would one want the Carpenter classic exhaust rather than the side winder.

Sorry for the numerus questions, but it is never easy when seeking out something unique….

Thanks,

Patrick

Roadster....but them i'm swayed... it is a hell of a bike!

Welcome from South Australia
A later model with ABS

OK - I guess I have to start with a question or two.

Do you want ABS?.
Do you want to change out the speedo/tacho for something different?. Post 2010 use a CANBUS system that is proprietary and have to be there for the engine to start.

I don't think tranny failures are THAT year dependant - AS LONG AS THEY WERE CORRECTLY ASSEMBLED. Pre 2009 there were a few assembly Q/C issues in this area.
About to build a monster - have the trasmission modded at the same time. It makes sense. Oh and fit a new detent spring whilst you're in there.

Being a proud owner of a Touring, is the direction I would steer you towards. I've got 2012 picked it up used. After 33000Km I'm just doing its first full service.
Valves are in prime condition, no need of changing sims. Checked steering head all good. Changed fork oil, found previous owner had work done on a seal, different oil in the forks. The one that had transmission oil was in prime condition and the one that had fork oil had a really black dirty oil. Changed both out but decided to use transmission oil to see what happens. Changed spark plugs for NGK Iridime. and chged all other oils at the same time which is diff only. Am now ready for another 30 to 40000 Km. All this to say that if you doing a lot of miles than this is very sweet ride. Sorry for rambling on.
Also forgot to mention, lucky to have found TORS exhaust, Am ordering Straight through crossover from Paul Bryant as soon a Santa gives me the cash. She said I could have it to finish up on my mods. I love Santa. Lol
Bernie

The brute exhaust is better for bikes with forward controls (standard, classic, touring) and the sidewinder was designed for the roadsters with the more neutral controls.

I will also tell you that a R3 with just intake, exhaust, and a tune is quite capable of spinning the 240 tire. That said I've heard of guys with touring models doing wheelies, so that's apparently enough tire .... now when you talk about nearly doubling the power. .... personally id want the big tire.

We've seen transmission problems in every year. I second the opinion that you should upgrade the tranny while you have it apart.

Not sure why your going to piss money away on a motor kit for drag racing, weekend cruising. But hey its your dime. As noted above the difference in the pipe depends on the style. I can say put a sidewinder on anything with forward controls will be a leg burner. Road one nice looking but the brute is better all around suited. Neither come with heat shield although you can atleast get a after market set now that are longer still they detract from the pipe quality. Personally I think you should buy the bike ride it and work on the important things first. Fork suspension, shocks and criusing comforts, a pipe with air cleaner. And tuning!!!! You could still equip it with the brute pipe ahead of time in case you do decide you want more hp.

Thanks to all for your insight.

ABS is not relevant to me and I prefer not to have it. I would not swap out the speedo.

I already planned on redoing the suspension to suit me (always the first change on every bike I buy).

The transmission feedback is most appreciated. I was being optimistic hoping gear mesh was improved in later years. Few drivetrains support doubling the load. Motor will be out, so now is the time to do it. I will talk to Carpenter the next couple of days.

Sidewinder pipe it is.

Warp9.9 – Understand your point. My simple response – because I can. Yes, I will have more in the motor/tranny build than the cost of the bike. All my vehicles (bikes, cars, truck, boat) are built to some degree and unique to me. I see a few hundred Harleys per day (I work within one mile of Daytona Beach HD) and I want something that no one else has (locally at least).

Logic dictates I do this in two steps. Step 1 – sidewinder pipe, ram air, dyno tune (after flashing ECU with Roaster map and installing PCV). This way I can enjoy the bike now. Step 2 – motor/tranny build. I am the opposite of most on this forum and step 2 would be done during the summer months when the heat/humidity is less than enjoyable here in Florida.

Again, thank you for the feedback!

Sounds like a plan! Welcome to the site BTW! We hope you'll keep us updated on your progress.

My family used to vacation on the red sands of Ormond Beach. My great uncle had a condo at the Aquarius, which was still there last time I drove A1A a couple years ago. Love that area, but we've been going to the gulf side for a few years. I'd love to live down there....maybe some day.

beachpatrick said:

Thanks to all for your insight.

ABS is not relevant to me and I prefer not to have it. I would not swap out the speedo.

I already planned on redoing the suspension to suit me (always the first change on every bike I buy).

The transmission feedback is most appreciated. I was being optimistic hoping gear mesh was improved in later years. Few drivetrains support doubling the load. Motor will be out, so now is the time to do it. I will talk to Carpenter the next couple of days.

Sidewinder pipe it is.

Warp9.9 – Understand your point. My simple response – because I can. Yes, I will have more in the motor/tranny build than the cost of the bike. All my vehicles (bikes, cars, truck, boat) are built to some degree and unique to me. I see a few hundred Harleys per day (I work within one mile of Daytona Beach HD) and I want something that no one else has (locally at least).

Logic dictates I do this in two steps. Step 1 – sidewinder pipe, ram air, dyno tune (after flashing ECU with Roaster map and installing PCV). This way I can enjoy the bike now. Step 2 – motor/tranny build. I am the opposite of most on this forum and step 2 would be done during the summer months when the heat/humidity is less than enjoyable here in Florida.

Again, thank you for the feedback!

Click to expand...

Actually for just a Carpenter kit, the motor does not get removed. But I can tell you from experience that getting the transmission done makes it much smoother, and in my opinion worth the extra money while it's in the shop.