Rivco Crash Bar Install FYI

[britman]

I just finished installing my Rivco Crash Bars that the the fat man man brought. FYI when you remove the the motor mount bolt, be careful not to drive the bolt out (after jacking the bike up) without watching the other side. It can hang on the radiator trim if you are not paying attention or drinking beer. Then you have to remove all of the trim bolts, take a rubber mallet and straighten the **** thing. Not that this happened to me or anything, just FYI. On to the Progressive 440's, Flange Covers (just because they are Flip's favorite), and tank pad. Already done the the gel seat and Kuryakyn mirrors. I was a real good boy this year. Happy New Year to all........

 

[Sidecar Flip]

T'was the days after Christmas and all through the house......

Man Britman, I didn't catch you.

My Rivco T.O. Bars came yesterday via the fat man in a brown truck and my AudioVox Css100 cruise control came today delivered by the same fat man in the same brown truck. Is that coincidence or what?

Anyhow, I see that it says in the instructions with the Rivco's to jack up the motor and the bolt should come right out so I'm wondering why you had to drive it out??

I'm going to get the Rivco clamps and some hiway pegs too......want the HD feet up look.

 

[rusty]

Hey Flip, I think brit's choice of words may have just been "drive the bolt out" in lieu of something more subtle. I recall the bolt head passing very close to the radiator trim, even to the point that I "pushed" it enough (deflected it) for the bolt to pass by. I had my son there to assist so we could see what was happening on both sides of the bike. I also had a small round tappered pry bar on hand so as the bolt exited the left side of the frame support, I inserted the pry bar & literally used leverage to take the load off the bolt as it continued it journey out the right side (somewhere in there I was "unscrewing" the bolt for removal). I don't think I used a jack for the process though, knowing the principles of leverage and using that application during the process. I used the pry bar and followed the bolt "out" as I stated earlier. So, I "did" drive the bolt out and unscrew, and maybe that is also how britman did it as well, so his choice of words may be applicable.

Also, what does the T.O. stand for, Tip Over?

Britman, which tank pad are you speaking of, knee or tank top? I would like a knee pad but all of the ones on the net with pics do not show the "TRIUMPH" logo on them. Let me know of your puchase and if it has the logo.

See ya.

 

[Gunshots]

Flip Is that the Harley-Davidson look your after, or the Hunda-Dolla Look

 

[Sidecar Flip]

T.O. not TKO

Rusty:

Yes, T.O. is Tip Over. Again, CRASH sounds so final, especially approaching the new year. I'd much rather have a tip over in the new year than a crash.

Right now, I'm going to borrow your son.....please send him air freight special delivery. I'll pay the shipping charges. Yeah, right.....I guess Amy will have to do. With my luck I'll follow the instructions, take the nut off, lift the motor (sounds a little over the top) and take a punch and tap the bolt out, hitting my wife in the forehead with the head of the bolt at which time my wife will proceed to take said bolt and stick it in my posterior, forcibly.

On a lighter note, I found out the radiator was pretty flexible in it's mounts when I put on the lower deflectors this summer. I had to "adjust" the radiator so the clamp overlaps would clear the radiator trim at full right and left lock. If the bolt hangs on the trim, I'll just move it aside.

I bought the tank bra or whatever it's called from Cowleta Cycles in Newman, Georgia, coincidentally home of Triumph, NA. I don't know if I like it yet. It fits nicely, has a pocket in it with a self closing 1/4 turn stainless snap and is logo'd "Triumph". It's black leather too. I believe it was around 80 bucks.

I'll pass on the exhaust flange covers. I think they are a little "cheesy" myself. I like the silver-brown exhaust flanges. You know something is happening inside. Besides, where there is heat there is fire and where there is fire there is power. Saying that, the heat in the mufflers tends to melt the soles on my wife's boots and makes a black gooey mess on the chrome. Not a good thing.

 

[Sidecar Flip]

Flip Is that the Harley-Davidson look your after, or the Hunda-Dolla Look

Gunshots:

I guess it's the "Hunda-Dolla look". Every Triumph branded acessory is at least a Hunda-Dolla. If I get the gas gage and clock it will be the "Twohunda-Dolla look". (each).

 

[britman]

[Britman, which tank pad are you speaking of, knee or tank top? I would like a knee pad but all of the ones on the net with pics do not show the "TRIUMPH" logo on them. Let me know of your puchase and if it has the logo.

See ya.[/quote]
Rusty;
I got got the small top tank pad that goes directly infront of the seat. My old riding jacket zipper would sometimes rub there getting on and off the bike. It does have the Triumph logo on it and I'm not sure I like it that much. I going to leave it for the time being to see if it grows on me. The project I am really thinking on is a rear fender license plate mount (lighted) and Harley Duce style rear turn signals that are mounted on the fender struts. I have placed them at least twenty times but as of yet I haven't pulled the drill out. I know I don't like the stock set up hiding the rear tire, and I also don't like the side mount plate mount, no offense to anyone but it looks to "chopperfied" for a Rocket in my humble opinion. The set up may go on today or be sent back to J&P, I'll know when the time comes. I have installed the exhaust flanges, on the Jardine headers and they look great. You do have to drill and rat tail the holes a little for a good fit, but well worth it.

 

[Sidecar Flip]

Shamed me into it..

Okay, so my Rivco T.O. Bars were languishing on the dining room table but the box did make a nice perch for Buddy and Hissy and they were both slowly opening the box anyway. Cats aren't fast but they are persistent. I helped them along.

I followed Rivco's instructions, not at first but after I found the through bolt needed to be screwed out, not a big deal with a 3/8" air ratchet, but it should slide out, right, right.

I had the bike almost vertical anyway. I put a step block under the side stand when I park it because I keep the R3 nosed up between the T100 and the sidecar so that necessitates an almost vertical stance. For the uninformed, a step block is a machined block of steel with serrations in one face sort of like a staircase. It's used for setups on a jig bore or vertical mill. Die setters also use them to align dies and bolster plates.

So the bike was almost vertical. I put my roller jack with a block of wood on top under the sump plate and lifted, just a little while pulling on the through bolt. A couple of pumps and the bolt came right out, no fuss. Being a Never-Seize addict, I gooed the bolt up, put it through the right hand T.O. Bar and placed it on the bike. Then I did the other side and went to put in the 2 lower cap screws. No luck. The punched holes in the lower boss were out just enough that I couldn't start the cap screws. Is there a die grinder in the house??? Naturally. I disassembled the T.O. Bars, enlarged the holes (on both the right and left bosses) (radiused them real nicely like a good toolmaker would) and bolted everything back together with Never-Seize on everything.

All is good with the world now.

I probably could have just told you I enlarged the holes and put the whole thing together but I wanted you guys to appreciate the whole scenario. Besides, as I was wiggling the left side bar trying to get the lower bolts in the boss, it became detached, swung down and hit me in the head. That sucker is heavy. I have a knot on my forehead now and I'm not telling Amy how I got it.

Next project is the AudioVox Css100 electronic cruise control. That will be a little more involved as I have to fabricate some bracketry (from 6016-T4 naturally).