Replacing the brake lever

[Racket3]

Hi folks,

Has anyone attempted to replace the brake lever?

I got the original part as my old one was scratched a bit on the tip.

I could unscrew the nut on the lower side of the lever shown in blue. It seems the screw (shaft) inside sits pretty fit (shown in red)

Do I need to use a rubber hammer to yank it out and remove the lever out? Or are there other pieces involved to be removed as well.

Appreciate your insight.

 

[Frosty Rider]

the bolt itself might also be threaded, i haven't looked at mine, but some of the Honda's we use for teaching are like that, you have undue the nut, and then unscrew the bolt itself

 

[Wadejesu]

It's threaded,

 

[ArizonaKid]

Hi folks,

Has anyone attempted to replace the brake lever?

I got the original part as my old one was scratched a bit on the tip.

I could unscrew the nut on the lower side of the lever shown in blue. It seems the screw (shaft) inside sits pretty fit (shown in red)

Do I need to use a rubber hammer to yank it out and remove the lever out? Or are there other pieces involved to be removed as well.

Appreciate your insight.

I’ve replaced both levers on my R3GT. The nut comes off the bottom and the bolt is unscrewed from the top and will slip out when the threads disengage. You may have to wiggle the lever a little. The plunger piece will slip out of the rubber boot in the master cylinder and is attached to the lever. You’ll need to separate that piece from the lever as it does NOT come with the new lever ( it’s actually part of the master cylinder). You do that by driving the brass bushing out of the lever (a socket will work as a driver) which holds the two pieces together. A new bushing comes with the new lever. Assemble the new lever in reverse order. When installing the lever assembly be careful not to torque the bolt too much or it will break - just snug it down and put the nut back on the bottom of the bolt. Don’t over-tighten the nut either. You’ll need to finagle the plunger back into the rubber boot, which is a little tricky, but doable. Hope this helps.

 

[bouncebrothers]

Problem I have encounter is the small dip switch underneath the clutch lever, The ASV CRC550 bends this switch when operated, it may be for the quickshifter. I am not sure if other brackets are made

 

[ExtremeAntics]

That’s the clutch micro switch that determines the clutch is pulled in to start the bike

 

[bouncebrothers]

That’s the clutch micro switch that determines the clutch is pulled in to start the bike

Hi, that was my assumption but I spoke with triumph to confirm and they informed me it speaks to a number of systems but couldn’t tell me what! Anyway I agree with you it’s got on purpose! I have spoke with ASV

Do not buy them for now they are re designing them to suit the bike

 

[Journeyman]

Hi, that was my assumption but I spoke with triumph to confirm and they informed me it speaks to a number of systems but couldn’t tell me what! Anyway I agree with you it’s got on purpose! I have spoke with ASV

Do not buy them for now they are re designing them to suit the bike

It is the clutch switch which does affect many other functions when broken or disabled- your fuel gauge will not work, for example.

 

[ExtremeAntics]

It also affects fuel supply, it is the culprit for the bike stalling when coasting up to a stop.

 

[bouncebrothers]

It also affects fuel supply, it is the culprit for the bike stalling when coasting up to a stop.

That’s handy to know it’s happened to me once already !!!