Removing baffles from stock exhaust

Welcome to the best R3 owners forum, pop over to the "introduce Yourself " section under the forum tabs tell a bit about yourself and your bike and you will get heaps more guys willing to help you but you can also just do more searches in regards to your exhaust there are heaps of threads and when you are ready to start playing with tunes drop me a line
 
Thanks for the help, Hanso! I appreciate it.
 
I picked up a complete exhaust with all of the stainless heat shields/covers , a full set of all 3 like new TORS and the Triumph stock cat bypass pipe for my '06 Classic from some gal in Florida on ebay for around $450.00 US, and now the bike runs and sounds much better. Took it to the Tacoma Triumph dealer and got the computer tuned for $30.00 US.

Now it sounds a lot like a very fast expensive foreign sports car I will never be able to afford...lol

For those of you that have the old 3 pipe exhaust, if you can, I highly recommend replacing the cat box. Besides being kinda heavy, it does restrict the flow and the noice.
 
Is this still the best way to de-cat a stock R3T muffler? Using a 2 ¼" hole bit to drill through the first baffle, then a 2" hole bit to drill through the second, and finish with a 3 foot ⅝ or ¾ bit to drill through the cat.
 
YOU can simply remove it all but leave the header and install a SLIP ON for the best performance using the stock header
 
AndrewK said:
Is this still the best way to de-cat a stock R3T muffler? Using a 2 ¼" hole bit to drill through the first baffle, then a 2" hole bit to drill through the second, and finish with a 3 foot ⅝ or ¾ bit to drill through the cat.
Click to expand...

In a post by Rocket3pilot "skinning the CAT ?" he showed what happened when he tried to drill through the CAT, just didn't work.

 
Paul Bryant said:
In a post by Rocket3pilot "skinning the CAT ?" he showed what happened when he tried to drill through the CAT, just didn't work.

Click to expand...
That's exactly correct! The CAT itself is some kind of super metal foil that can take extreme heat without disintegrating and is built very similar to cardboard except in a circular fashion so as to end up a cylinder shape. The problem with drilling is that a drill bit has to be able to bite and pull itself into the material which it can't do in this case because the very thin foil simply folds over at the contact point and the bit just rubs and doesn't cut. Almost as if it's gummy?

I think you have to gnaw on it with a hole saw first to get it pierced and then, with long needle nose pliers or chisels, start peeling away the layers from the center, so as to make the hole larger and larger until you remove it all. It's by far the most time consuming part of the process. Slitting the can open from the back as I did and welding it back together didn't take any time at all.
 
AndrewK said:
Is this still the best way to de-cat a stock R3T muffler? Using a 2 ¼" hole bit to drill through the first baffle, then a 2" hole bit to drill through the second, and finish with a 3 foot ⅝ or ¾ bit to drill through the cat.
Click to expand...
 
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