R3T derestricting

I've been happy with the performance of my stock 2015 R3T and I was aware of the post that started this thread long ago but I put off considering this until today as I get ready to get my bike out after the long winter months. I do have the proper TuneECU cable but I haven't used TuneECU yet. (I have used DealerTool to balance my throttle bodies and bleed the ABS.) After I bought the bike, I glanced at the TuneECU website and it all looked pretty confusing so I put off messing with the map for the time being. (I seem to remember seeing a "TuneECU for Dummies" somwhere and I'll try to find that if I use the map mentioned in this thread.

Before I do anything, I want to make sure I understand what this map involves. I apologize if these are dumb questions but I'm completely new to this mapping stuff. If I'm understanding this correctly, with the map described in the original post (I haven't read the entire long thread), can I expect an increase in HP and torque as well as an increase in mileage at highway speeds. Is that correct?

My second question is if there are any trade-offs. Do I lose any low-end torque that the R3T is known for? Or is this one of those rare things that is all positive with no negatives involved. If so, I see no reason why not to use this map - unless a better one has surfaced since this thread was started. I just don't like the idea of the engine being restricted for no good reason.

Advice would be greatly appreciated to help me decide whether to change my map and how to get started doing it.

No emotions evoked here -- NOT.

Fundamentally, when the Roadster and Touring came out, folks looked at the disparity of power and torque numbers for the two models, and mostly Touring owners looked at the roughly 50 hp "deficit" of the Touring, and wondered aloud, "Can I have some of that 'back' ?"

And the short answer is, a qualified 'yes'.

As your life experience has taught you, changes invariably involve tradeoffs, and this situation is no different.

The question is, what do you really want to do ?

This is a good thread, and there is a whole forum devoted to changes through reprogramming the engine control unit.

I would suggest you go through the process of familiarizing yourself with your TunECU and the connection between your computer and your bike, to the point of seeing the green connection light in TunECU.

At that point, this discussion will be more real, and as long as you stick to well-establish re-maps, your engine will be happy.

If I can make one generalization about upping the power for the Tourings, the vast majority of the folks who have done this report increased fuel consumption (fewer miles per tank).

So be prepared to make that tradeoff.

And all that said, the BEST thing to do for your bike, is to take it to someone who knows their way around a dynamometer and your ECU, and have a discussion, and resulting map optimized for *your* bike and *your* expectations.

ZoneIII said:

Before I do anything, I want to make sure I understand what this map involves. I apologize if these are dumb questions but I'm completely new to this mapping stuff. If I'm understanding this correctly, with the map described in the original post (I haven't read the entire long thread), can I expect an increase in HP and torque as well as an increase in mileage at highway speeds. Is that correct?

Click to expand...

No dumb questions here. I, too have a 2010 touring, all stock as far as I know, with the exception of a K&N filter I put in under the seat.
Which map are you referring to? I have about 5 or 6 versions, but I am confused to which one is best for mine. Not counting what Joesmoe says with the dyno.

Looks like what will work for you will work for me. I'll keep an eye here.

I pulled the map with TuneECU and my original map is a 20367.
The ones I have are 20368 with a few variations between them. I plan on remapping pretty soon. As soon as I figure out the one that works best.

^^^^

I have a feeling if you lost the low end torque it would not be enough for you to notice. In all actuality you will probably increase torque and HP across the entire range. That is just a guess though as I have not heard of anyone doing a dyno comparison between the stock and this De-Restricting tune. Most people go with TORS or other bolt on parts before they head for the dyno.

bob

Starmanut said:

No dumb questions here. I, too have a 2010 touring, all stock as far as I know, with the exception of a K&N filter I put in under the seat.
Which map are you referring to? I have about 5 or 6 versions, but I am confused to which one is best for mine. Not counting what Joesmoe says with the dyno.

Looks like what will work for you will work for me. I'll keep an eye here.

I pulled the map with TuneECU and my original map is a 20367.
The ones I have are 20368 with a few variations between them. I plan on remapping pretty soon. As soon as I figure out the one that works best.

Click to expand...

I'm referring to the map that started this thread. I'm just trying to find out what the trade-offs may be before deciding whether to use it.

Bob R said:

^^^^

I have a feeling if you lost the low end torque it would not be enough for you to notice. In all actuality you will probably increase torque and HP across the entire range. That is just a guess though as I have not heard of anyone doing a dyno comparison between the stock and this De-Restricting tune. Most people go with TORS or other bolt on parts before they head for the dyno.

bob

Click to expand...

Thanks, Bob. I'm glad you mentioned TORS because the post that started this thread said that TORS had no effect on performance with this tune. I'm not interested in changing the sound of my exhaust but I would like to de-restrict the engine if it increases performance with no serious trade-offs.

All I can tell you, is with a stock bike, the re-map I got from @HansO provided a noticeable increase in get-up-and-go, and a noticeable decrease in miles ridden between tanks.

There was also a decel popping issue.

I asked him for an updated map that leaned the fuel below 3,000 rpm and lessened the decel popping, and he did, and that is the map I've been running -- happily -- in my bike for a couple of years.

I have since changed out the exhaust and intake, but could not discern any change in performance from doing that.

I've been convinced by several folks in the know, that any map sent to you from someone else will at best be an approximation. For two years, that approximation has been good enough.

Now I've decided I want to go one more step. I cannot afford the big iron of Carpenter and TTS (I would dearly love to do one or both were I younger and richer). So I have decided to install so-called "street" cams from Lush Racing, and once having done so, will go to a local tuner who works on Power Commander to trim the bike for my specific configuration, then remove the Power Commander, download its trim map, and use the TunECU import function to update a special version of a map that will then be "my" map and hopefully live happily ever after.

That's just me.

Good luck in your own journey.

I have been using a tune on my touring that rewards me with some extra horsepower...and does derestrict as well. Of course I know horsepower comes at the cost of bottom end torque, and I recently re restricted mine...well..not at the top end, but at the bottom...the secondaries don't open completely till above 2500 rpm...this has given me back the stump pulling ability of the factory tune, with the wild abandon of a performance tune.

rocketjohn said:

I have been using a tune on my touring that rewards me with some extra horsepower...and does derestrict as well. Of course I know horsepower comes at the cost of bottom end torque, and I recently re restricted mine...well..not at the top end, but at the bottom...the secondaries don't open completely till above 2500 rpm...this has given me back the stump pulling ability of the factory tune, with the wild abandon of a performance tune.

Click to expand...

And where might I find a copy of that map? I have one where the 2nds are 84% open in the lower rpms, and 100 all the rest.
It may be the same.

I have the ones from the TuneECU site. and a couple from Idaho Red.
I suppose I should just try them and stick with the one I like best. Don't want to mess up the engine, though!

Trying, and sticking with what you like best is a good way to go.