Question about voltage output and the SH847AA rectifier

[PaddyO]

I took out the battery to get load tested at the Batteries Plus store. It is a Deka battery, which I believe is a well made battery. There was a 1/17 sticker on it which I think means it was installed on January, 2017, almost 2 years ago. The load test showed it to be on the low end of the "good" range. I decided to replace it anyway as I am trying to rule out a possible cause of this apparent overcharging. I replaced it with a Duracell DURAGM-20L. I put it on the trickle charger for about 12 hours before testing and using. I also got the Optimate tester for Cranking Power and Alternator Bedifferent suggested. Before starting the bike, the voltage in the green with the Optimate, and my Gearingo gear indicator is showing 12.7-12.9 after turning on the key. When starting the bike, the Optimate shows the voltage drop to be between 9.5 and 10 volts, which is good. At idle, the Optimate is indicating the voltage is varying above and below 13.5 volts. The CVS is flashing slow green which is between 13.2 and 14.6 volts. Once the revs increase, either at idle or on the road, the CVS is flashing a fast green (more than 14.7 volts) and the Optimate is showing more than 14.5 volts and also flashing red indicating more than 15 volts.

@DEcosse, is it possible for the rectifier to be bad? Or is this something not to worry about?

 

[PaddyO]

Regarding the Duracell battery at Batteries Plus, it is made by East Penn Manufacturing. It has the same specs as their Intimidator and Deka power sports batteries. Batteries Plus adds a two year replacement warranty so that if it goes bad with in two years of purchase, they will replace it. Batteries Plus also offers a 10% discount if ordered from their website. You can have it shipped to you or pick it up at the closest Batteries Plus store to you. The store will also give the 10% discount if you ask for it when getting the battery so you do not need to order the battery from the website, if you do not want to, in order to get the discount.

 

[Bedifferent]

Regarding the Duracell battery at Batteries Plus, it is made by East Penn Manufacturing. It has the same specs as their Intimidator and Deka power sports batteries. Batteries Plus adds a two year replacement warranty so that if it goes bad with in two years of purchase, they will replace it. Batteries Plus also offers a 10% discount if ordered from their website. You can have it shipped to you or pick it up at the closest Batteries Plus store to you. The store will also give the 10% discount if you ask for it when getting the battery so you do not need to order the battery from the website, if you do not want to, in order to get the discount.

I took out the battery to get load tested at the Batteries Plus store. It is a Deka battery, which I believe is a well made battery. There was a 1/17 sticker on it which I think means it was installed on January, 2017, almost 2 years ago. The load test showed it to be on the low end of the "good" range. I decided to replace it anyway as I am trying to rule out a possible cause of this apparent overcharging. I replaced it with a Duracell DURAGM-20L. I put it on the trickle charger for about 12 hours before testing and using. I also got the Optimate tester for Cranking Power and Alternator Bedifferent suggested. Before starting the bike, the voltage in the green with the Optimate, and my Gearingo gear indicator is showing 12.7-12.9 after turning on the key. When starting the bike, the Optimate shows the voltage drop to be between 9.5 and 10 volts, which is good. At idle, the Optimate is indicating the voltage is varying above and below 13.5 volts. The CVS is flashing slow green which is between 13.2 and 14.6 volts. Once the revs increase, either at idle or on the road, the CVS is flashing a fast green (more than 14.7 volts) and the Optimate is showing more than 14.5 volts and also flashing red indicating more than 15 volts.

@DEcosse, is it possible for the rectifier to be bad? Or is this something not to worry about?

It sounds about normal.too me. Even with a fully charged battery it takes a while for the regulator to sense and throttle back on the charging voltage. I believe my charging voltage seemed on the high side on startup with the regulator and a fully charged battery. I never took the time to check the charging voltage after a ride. Your optimate draw down readings look good. A handy little tool...not as good I'm sure as a load test but it still give some good guidance.
We will see what DEcosse says as he would be the man in the know, but I think you are good.

 

[PaddyO]

I put the stock R/R back in and sent the SH847AA to Jack Fleming at roadstercycle.com for him to check it out. I found his site through a search of the internet. He sells these and other Shingdegen R/Rs, including kits for installing them on various bikes. He also has a series of videos on how to install the kits; test the R/R, the stator, and how to solder. In a series of emails he was very helpful and for the cost of postage of sending the R/R to/from him, he would test it for me at no charge. He compared the output of mine versus a new one he had in stock. At high RPM and no load, they both put out 14.82 volts. When he put it under a load of 6, 1157 bulbs on a light bar, they both put out about 14.42 volts. So it appears that my R/R is working properly. His opinion was that the 14.82 volts will not cause a problem for the battery or else Suzuki would not have had it made for that output.

For those of you who have been using Shindengen SH847, how long have you been using it, and can you tell if it has created any problems for your battery?

If I had not had the CVS or the Optimate, I would have been blissfully ignorant that any of this was going on. Maybe in this case, ignorance is bliss?

Thanks,

Paddy

 

[Bedifferent]

I put the stock R/R back in and sent the SH847AA to Jack Fleming at roadstercycle.com for him to check it out. I found his site through a search of the internet. He sells these and other Shingdegen R/Rs, including kits for installing them on various bikes. He also has a series of videos on how to install the kits; test the R/R, the stator, and how to solder. In a series of emails he was very helpful and for the cost of postage of sending the R/R to/from him, he would test it for me at no charge. He compared the output of mine versus a new one he had in stock. At high RPM and no load, they both put out 14.82 volts. When he put it under a load of 6, 1157 bulbs on a light bar, they both put out about 14.42 volts. So it appears that my R/R is working properly. His opinion was that the 14.82 volts will not cause a problem for the battery or else Suzuki would not have had it made for that output.

For those of you who have been using Shindengen SH847, how long have you been using it, and can you tell if it has created any problems for your battery?

If I had not had the CVS or the Optimate, I would have been blissfully ignorant that any of this was going on. Maybe in this case, ignorance is bliss?

Thanks,

Paddy

I have been running mine all summer and have not had any battery issues. My battery will be three years old at the beginning of next summer and keeping with my 2-3 year rule, the beast will get the new battery that I bought this summer. It is sitting in the basement just waiting for the acid. Did you happen to check your charging voltage with the stock R/R back in the bike?

 

[PaddyO]

I have been running mine all summer and have not had any battery issues. My battery will be three years old at the beginning of next summer and keeping with my 2-3 year rule, the beast will get the new battery that I bought this summer. It is sitting in the basement just waiting for the acid. Did you happen to check your charging voltage with the stock R/R back in the bike?

Thanks for the response @Bedifferent. The CVS indicates the OEM R/R is charging between 13.2 and 14.6 volts while under way. My voltmeter indicates it is charging at 14.3 volts at idle and with increased RPMs with no load and with driving lights on and headlight on high beam.