Question about Noise while releasing clutch

@Journeyman that initial noise/vibration is back right on schedule about 600mi after the dealer messed with it. Not in the morning when it's cold but if ambient temps get into the upper 60s. I did follow your video and bled the master cylinder this morning before going for a ride, and with it finally being a warmish day it made that noise even after bleeding. I got no bubbles, only murky dirty fluid which I cycled and replaced a few times. Maybe riding it after made things settle in after whatever clutch plates sticking broke loose and as usual once that first grind/vibration happens when starting out all is well. I probably need to bleed it from top to bottom so do you have a suggestion as to which of the many bleeding kits I should get? I'm not doing the manual back and forth anymore, too much hassle and mess with the little tube at the bottom. I have downloaded that extremely convoluted manual from this site but will pass on that and hopefully find a video. How difficult is it the get to the bottom bleed nipple?
I have also finally ordered my Easyrizer big blue lift which is still the same price it's been here in the US ahead of any tariffs kicking in.

EDIT: Came back from ride, parked it for a few hours and when engaging the clutch that first time to get going that noise/vibration is back. The only thing I can try now is bleed the entire clutch line.

I downloaded this Rocket 3R Workshop Manual again and now the search functions actually work for me maybe because I have a new PC. Seems like a pain to get to the lower clutch bleed nipple but I'll have my lift soon so it should not be that bad, certainly not the most difficult thing I've done.

Protonhound said:

I downloaded this Rocket 3R Workshop Manual again and now the search functions actually work for me maybe because I have a new PC. Seems like a pain to get to the lower clutch bleed nipple but I'll have my lift soon so it should not be that bad, certainly not the most difficult thing I've done.

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I wish that had worked for you- if no bubbles and you're doing it correctly, you must have something else going on. If it were me I wouldn't obsess over it until you get to the 20K service when you can have a look at the clutch to check for wear, etc.

Getting to the bleed nipple at the bottom of the clutch is a royal PIA that, once again, would be best to wait on until the 20K service and then probably only if you need to adjust the valves. In that case you pull the radiator and go deep enough to get to the clutch and that lower bleed screw.

Here's what you're in for if you decide to go for it. I wouldn't want to do all that at 10k miles and then return to it in another 10K to check (and possibly adjust) the valves. This should give you an idea...

I'm almost at 40 K and due to do this same service again and not looking forward to it, despite having done it once before. Hoping this time all valves are in spec, but I'm a bit curious to have a look at the clutch and considering beefier springs and may dive deeper for that reason even if valves are in spec.

Journeyman said:

I wish that had worked for you- if no bubbles and you're doing it correctly, you must have something else going on. If it were me I wouldn't obsess over it until you get to the 20K service when you can have a look at the clutch to check for wear, etc.

Getting to the bleed nipple at the bottom of the clutch is a royal PIA that, once again, would be best to wait on until the 20K service and then probably only if you need to adjust the valves. In that case you pull the radiator and go deep enough to get to the clutch and that lower bleed screw.

Here's what you're in for if you decide to go for it. I wouldn't want to do all that at 10k miles and then return to it in another 10K to check (and possibly adjust) the valves. This should give you an idea...

I'm almost at 40 K and due to do this same service again and not looking forward to it, despite having done it once before. Hoping this time all valves are in spec, but I'm a bit curious to have a look at the clutch and considering beefier springs and may dive deeper for that reason even if valves are in spec.

A look at the 2.5 Innards - DIY 20K mile service, including valve clearance check and shim replacement

Part 1 This includes valve clearance check and shim replacement. Also air, fuel, spark plug and coolant replacement, and bleeding the clutch. This is a work in progress, so edits and further information to come... Get the service manual here...

www.r3owners.net

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Since the clutch judder is consistent in its inconsistency right in line with other folks here who have that going on that sounds reasonable. Removing the radiator doesn't actually sound that bad but I wouldn't do it for funsies.

Protonhound said:

Since the clutch judder is consistent in its inconsistency right in line with other folks here who have that going on that sounds reasonable. Removing the radiator doesn't actually sound that bad but I wouldn't do it for funsies.

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It's not that bad if you have tiny hands like a 12 year-old Thailand girl to get to some of the fasteners. It doable, just a pain in my opinion. Other gaskets, etc required. I think I listed everything....

Jay said:

First off, you are trying to ride it too slow. Nothing about this bike is slow. On the previous generation there is an anti-chatter spring on the inner-most friction plate. Not sure how this clutch pack is designed but it may have the same design and it will make noise sometimes. Just ride it like you stole it and you won’t be worrying about the clutch noise

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Talking about the previous generation. Can you tell me what i can do to fix the noise. Thanks

2012cliff said:

Talking about the previous generation. Can you tell me what i can do to fix the noise. Thanks

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There's a lot more knowledge out there on the 2.3s. Tell us a little more- mileage, original clutch- someone will want to know what oil you're using......