I am running a K and N 204 C(hrome) with the Triumph recommended Castrol RS 10/40-paying 8 dollars per US quart. So my total change is 60 USD and about 30 minutes. The guy I bought mine from used to pay 166 USD from the Triumph Stealership....70 for the Amsoil Oil, 10 for the filter, few bucks for the crush rings and 88 for 1.1 hours of labor!
INSANE!
Just remember your 25 Nm of torque on the sump plugs...18 Ftlbs for us non Newtonian folks.
I am running a K and N 204 C(hrome) with the Triumph recommended Castrol RS 10/40-paying 8 dollars per US quart. So my total change is 60 USD and about 30 minutes. The guy I bought mine from used to pay 166 USD from the Triumph Stealership....70 for the Amsoil Oil, 10 for the filter, few bucks for the crush rings and 88 for 1.1 hours of labor!
INSANE!
Just remember your 25 Nm of torque on the sump plugs...18 Ftlbs for us non Newtonian folks.
Greg for what it is worth
I went back to reusable filter sold by K&P sure it is not as microfiltering this or that but in the real world that really means very little it is just a marketing gimmick . however being able to open the oil filter mix varsol in the filtration shake and pour over a cloth you SEE what goes through your engine ( big difference) if there is metal you SEE IT then running a magnet over the metal flakes you also see whether or not you have an internal problem and that is worth a lots of beans .
in aviation we used this method on ALL radial engines to ascertain the health of motors every 50 hrs spent in the air and we did at times find metal meaning potential problems before they would become really serious, so experience has dictated my position on oil filters. I only once found metal in one of those reusable filters I was riding a H-d softail fatboy found a camshaft getting worn beyond specification and had to change it. I believe I saved myself a godly chunk of change then, so if you decide to go that route you won't be sorry they sell for $100 . cheap insurance really and peace of mind each time you change oil and LOOK at what goes inside your engine
I would stay away from the Purolator PureOnes, at least for now. There have been reports of the elements separating the from the canisters...for now I'm using Wix filters and I like them...good quality, decent price...
I want to say the Purolators, or the Bosch, or both, recently went to convex rather than concave where the filter threads on, and no longer work. Been a lot of posts on it on the Rat site.
I want to say the Purolators, or the Bosch, or both, recently went to convex rather than concave where the filter threads on, and no longer work. Been a lot of posts on it on the Rat site.
When the oil is very cold it bypasses, does it not? I am very interested to know at what point does the media reach a point where all the oil is just bypassed?
Seems like a 22 micron filter metal mesh filter would be better than having oil bypassing at all times due to oil not flowing very well through various paper/polymer medias.
Just hypothesizing....I am looking at the aviation type as 22 micron filtration is much better than none at all. And run those magnetic sump and oil pan plugs sold by dimple mfg...MINE WORK GREAT!
Greg for what it is worth
I went back to reusable filter sold by K&P sure it is not as microfiltering this or that but in the real world that really means very little it is just a marketing gimmick . however being able to open the oil filter mix varsol in the filtration shake and pour over a cloth you SEE what goes through your engine ( big difference) if there is metal you SEE IT then running a magnet over the metal flakes you also see whether or not you have an internal problem and that is worth a lots of beans .
in aviation we used this method on ALL radial engines to ascertain the health of motors every 50 hrs spent in the air and we did at times find metal meaning potential problems before they would become really serious, so experience has dictated my position on oil filters. I only once found metal in one of those reusable filters I was riding a H-d softail fatboy found a camshaft getting worn beyond specification and had to change it. I believe I saved myself a godly chunk of change then, so if you decide to go that route you won't be sorry they sell for $100 . cheap insurance really and peace of mind each time you change oil and LOOK at what goes inside your engine
Greg for what it is worth
I went back to reusable filter sold by K&P sure it is not as microfiltering this or that but in the real world that really means very little it is just a marketing gimmick . however being able to open the oil filter mix varsol in the filtration shake and pour over a cloth you SEE what goes through your engine ( big difference) if there is metal you SEE IT then running a magnet over the metal flakes you also see whether or not you have an internal problem and that is worth a lots of beans .
in aviation we used this method on ALL radial engines to ascertain the health of motors every 50 hrs spent in the air and we did at times find metal meaning potential problems before they would become really serious, so experience has dictated my position on oil filters. I only once found metal in one of those reusable filters I was riding a H-d softail fatboy found a camshaft getting worn beyond specification and had to change it. I believe I saved myself a godly chunk of change then, so if you decide to go that route you won't be sorry they sell for $100 . cheap insurance really and peace of mind each time you change oil and LOOK at what goes inside your engine
Let's include the Wix Part Number 51358. Fits snugly in the chrome can like it should, available everywhere and the added plus is that it fits the Bonnie T100, Thrux and the Standard Bonnie. Almost forgot, fits my Zero Turn lawnmower too.
you soak it in a small container with gas, or varsol shake the whole container to dislodge any particles , pour over fine cloth ( to see if you have flakes of metal then blow dry the filter or not' reset the inner filter back on under spring tension in the outer case ,and screw it back on ..done