Oil Check on 2020 R3R

mlindsay

.020 Over
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Jan 15, 2021
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2020 Triumph Rocket Rgt :D
Been reading a lot of threads and service instructions. Google giving me some conflicting information linking to older Rockets. Think I figured it out with the instruction links. Here is what I did just in case.
  1. Moved bike on level spot
  2. Warmed it up for about 90 seconds
  3. Let it cool for 3 - 4 minutes
  4. Cleaned Dipstick
  5. Checked Dipstick again

It APPEARS to be overfull of oil. I don't see any hash marks other than the grid. Reason I'm checking is I found a small puddle of oil after my first ride over 5 miles after an oil change. The oil on the ground is "clean", i.e. pinking/purple other than dirt from the ground or grime it picked up on the way down. Am I reading the dipstick right?
 

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Been reading a lot of threads and service instructions. Google giving me some conflicting information linking to older Rockets. Think I figured it out with the instruction links. Here is what I did just in case.
  1. Moved bike on level spot
  2. Warmed it up for about 90 seconds
  3. Let it cool for 3 - 4 minutes
  4. Cleaned Dipstick
  5. Checked Dipstick again

It APPEARS to be overfull of oil. I don't see any hash marks other than the grid. Reason I'm checking is I found a small puddle of oil after my first ride over 5 miles after an oil change. The oil on the ground is "clean", i.e. pinking/purple other than dirt from the ground or grime it picked up on the way down. Am I reading the dipstick right?
That appears to be overfilled, but I often have to turn the stick over to see the true level- it sometimes smears on that side coming out.

Did you do the oil change or a shop?

Clean the bottom of the engine and look to see which of the drain bolts is leaking (or is it from somewhere else?). Is there a washer on that bolt?
 
Agree that the leak location indicates a loose oil filter (most likely) or maybe one where the old seal was left behind before the new one is installed, but that usually results in rapid loss.

As far as oil level, I've found that when I measure hot but otherwise follow the procedure, it's hard to read or seems very high. But if I follow the procedure to the letter (cold engine, level and on side stand, 75 seconds run, 3+ minutes to settle) I get a consistent reading. Since mine is losing and possibly consuming oil, I have to check relatively frequently.
 
Yeah always check when stone cold. If the oil filter is leaking you probably have air getting in also, showing higher oil level. As long as it isn't low, the dry sump system isn't going to cause wet sump problems like crank slap or aired up oil. Don't worry if it is a little high on the stick. The more the better for engine cooling. You just don't want it puking out the pie hole.
 
OK so follow up. The oil was leaking somewhere out of the front, behind the water cooler. I got down to remove the lower water cooler section, and it was missing a screw. Removing the other screws and started to peel back the water cooler, could see puddles of oil around the filter. Above the filter was dry. Filter wasn't even hand tight. Turned it 2 or 3 turns before it even felt "hand tight". Its been a year, maybe 2 since I have had the oil changed on it, but only put < 300 miles on it according to the odometer. Dealer changed the oil last time. Called them and they will take a look at it and fix it up, if they agree their problem, no charge.
 
OK so follow up. The oil was leaking somewhere out of the front, behind the water cooler. I got down to remove the lower water cooler section, and it was missing a screw. Removing the other screws and started to peel back the water cooler, could see puddles of oil around the filter. Above the filter was dry. Filter wasn't even hand tight. Turned it 2 or 3 turns before it even felt "hand tight". Its been a year, maybe 2 since I have had the oil changed on it, but only put < 300 miles on it according to the odometer. Dealer changed the oil last time. Called them and they will take a look at it and fix it up, if they agree their problem, no charge.
Mine was recently in for an oil leak. The dealer also blamed the oil filter and tightened it, along with checking the torque of various bolts. Unfortunately, in my case, I got it home and it's still leaking (from elsewhere). But I'm starting to think that something about the design is somehow maybe "rattling" oil filters loose? I've never heard of that on any vehicle before, though. I'm going to mark mine so I can visually inspect to see if it's rotated.
 
I've *never* had an oil filter loosen up on me and that, combined with the missing bolt, and overfilled oil, it all points to a problem in the service department at the dealership.

Changing the oil is easier, not to mention cheaper, than driving the bike over to a shop, waiting, and returning home- or having to get a ride and make two more trips!

This is why I like to work on my bike. I get that isn't everyone's thing, but many times I think we become intimidated that we'll make a mistake, so we end up paying someone else to make the mistake. I care more about my bike than any mechanic, and some are just watching the clock til closing time.

Glad it wasn't something worse.
 
I've *never* had an oil filter loosen up on me and that, combined with the missing bolt, and overfilled oil, it all points to a problem in the service department at the dealership.

Changing the oil is easier, not to mention cheaper, than driving the bike over to a shop, waiting, and returning home- or having to get a ride and make two more trips!

This is why I like to work on my bike. I get that isn't everyone's thing, but many times I think we become intimidated that we'll make a mistake, so we end up paying someone else to make the mistake. I care more about my bike than any mechanic, and some are just watching the clock til closing time.

Glad it wasn't something worse.
It was still under warranty for the oil change, so not a big deal. Luckily I didn't go on a long ride, and was just a short day trip with multiple stops.
 
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