I got the info from Wayne this morning and to simplify things I will just copy and paste the basics here:
We have since machined a few "spacers" that tighten up the clearances on the bottoming cone piston a bit more than just using thick walled tubing. This improves the dampening even more. NO, I do not want to make more, but the details are below.
1.) Easy and cheap - 1.5 in. OD tubing, .200 wall thickness, 1.575 in long.
or,
2.) Machined for closer clearances - 1.522 OD, .955 ID, 1.575 long. - add .125 in wide by .050 deep slot along outside.
Place on top of bottoming cone (underneath spring), and cut 1.575 inches from pre-load tube above spring. Cut less if more pre-load is desired. If using Progressive springs, you will need to cut for the pre-load in addition to what Progressive recommends for the spring used.
-Wayne
The clear anodized Rocket cartridge has a bottoming cone (a hydraulic cylinder on top of the damper that goes almost to hydraulic lock to prevent the fork from bottoming. See piston nestled inside the spring) at about the 3" compression point or about 2" of travel from ride height.)
This is what you feel when you grap some front brake and the bike quickly settles and then firms up.
The extension Wayne suggests adds an extension on top of this one and not preload, as he states that use you cut the preload sleeve shorter by the 1.575".
This adds compression damping to that of the damper, and it begins about 1/2" from normal ride height.