Just Installed A Tachometer On My R3T

Hi everyone. I have been having this strange problem with the display and tachometer the last week or so. When I am riding along or stopped at a light idling, the tachometer maxes out at 8000+ RPM, and the instrument display "shorts out" for lack of a better explanation. The speedometer does not work, all the warning lights flicker on and off, the clock and led displays go crazy or just goes blank. The engine sputters out when this is going on. I was able to turn around and make it home, the last two blocks everything worked fine, but this has me going nuts.
I'm not sure if this is happening because of the tachometer (or how I installed it) or not. I have not had the bike that long before installing the tachometer to get a feel for things.
I checked the "infamous ignition switch" thread and that does not seem to be what is happening.

Any thoughts or help?
Thanks!
 

Yup, it's got to be the fuel pump. I wear hearing aids when I have to, but not while riding. I had them in that time, first time I heard it. LOL
 

Interesting...I've never had any issues with my tach or the wiring but I'm pretty anal about all of my connections when doing wiring. I solder everything and pay close attention to how my wires are dressed under the tank. It sounds like a intermittent power connection issue. If you used molex connectors like I did, you can remove the tach and take it out of the equation. Go back and check all your work including the battery terminals and ground connection. If you pulled the instrument cluster when you raised the tank, pull the connector, check it and reseat it. Pull, check and reseat all your fuses as well. I'm not sure where you tied in for the switched power for the tach but if you went into the headlight check everything in there as well. I have never heard anyone report issues after the install except for the tach setup.
 

I removed the tachometer connections. It wasn't that. Took it out for a block, came back and turned it off. Now I get NOTHING when I turn the ignition on. I will be trying all the connections again, and I've got some dielectric grease to apply, too. It's driving me nuts. I'm charging the battery and if that does not work, I guess I'll take it in to a dealer or someplace that knows rockets.
 

I'm not sure how the bike responds with a really crap battery as I have never been there. If only battery power is applied to the tach and not the switched power as well I don't know if that would sweep the tach to 8,000 and stay there or not. I know it does a sweep when you first turn the key on. It just sounds like a bad connection somewhere with the switch being a major link in the whole thing. The switch doesn't seem to be as prone to going bad on the touring because of the lower current draw through the switch but I guess it can happen. Lots of harness plug connections as well including thr ECU. Do you have the immobilizer option installed on your bike? If so, remove it as that can cause issues.

Might I suggest you take your original post about the issues you are having and start a new thread/post about your problem. I'm sure it will get more views and responses as a new thread/post rather than being buried in the context of the tachometer post I made. At least it appears not to be the tach and associated wiring you may have done.
 
Point taken! I rode it about 400 miles with no problems after installing the tach. I posted in the Ignition Switch thread, if that doesn't give an answer, I'll make a new one, Thanks!
 
Today while trouble shooting, I was able to get a start after 8 hours on the charger, (while the charger was still hooked up). I've had the tachometer unplugged while checking fuses. So I turned the engine off to hook up the tachometer again. Everything dead again. I think I need a battery.
Anyway when I plugged the tach connector in, the back light came on, (this is with the key OFF), then the needle did a very slow sweep to 8000 RPM, then kicked back to zero and the back light went out. The whole sweep maybe took about 15 seconds. Not worried about that knowing there is a direct connection to the battery, besides the switched wire.
I was concerned at first that the tach would draw a bit of power even when key off. I suppose there is a relay inside that would take care of that, though.
Still, it was strange.
 

How old is your battery? I suspected that might be your problem all along. I have read to many things on the forum about crazy things happening when the battery has a issue. I have never had a issue with battery drain with the tach hooked up. It shouldn't draw anything until energize by the ignition wire. Personally, I like the Yuasa YTX20HL-BS...Their AGM High Performance 310 CCA Battery. Put the acid in it yourself, let it set as per instructions, charge and ride.
 

The dealer said the battery was new, but it did sit in h is showroom for 8 months before I got it.
But I found the problem. Finally. See this post for the explaination Speedometer, Display, Warning light went nuts, now everything is dead.
 
I was going to add, there is no reason for the tach to draw *any* current with the bike off -- it's not a clock nor an alarm.

You may want to review your wiring to ensure the power to it is switched, plus lights, plus the pulse from the coil, and ground.
 
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