Installing auxillary driving lights

[Cobba]

Gday all.
I'm doing a few electrical mods on my bike by installing 2 auxillary power sockets and a set of fog/driving lights.
The first power socket isn't going to be an issue. I've stuck it in the infill panel on the right rear of the engine and it will be direct from the battery with an inline fuse.
The other I'll put up on the headstem when I do my ignition relocation and pick up a trip wire from somewhere and set it up via a relay so it is set to ignition on only.

The problem I'm having is finding a point to pick up for the high beam power so I can activate a relay for the lights.
I'm a little nervous that if I splice into the high beam wire directly that I might draw too much power away from the lighting circuit and cause another problem.
Don't know if a coil on a relay will earth out too much of the lighting power or not, so throw your thoughts in here please guys.

It seems odd to me that there isn't a relay anywhere for the lighting circuit making me think it is all straight thru the ignition. Bit dumb I think.

Have done a search looking for Auxillary plugs (both lighting an power socket) and also thru my online manual but still haven't found an answer. I know that there is one, but where, and how do I identify it from the others.

Appreciate your help.

Cheers. Cobba.

 

[Ygransom]

It seems odd to me that there isn't a relay anywhere for the lighting circuit making me think it is all straight thru the ignition. Bit dumb I think.

Yes it is, that is why the Eastern Beaver headlight relay kit is so popular. Install it or make your own. If you don't expect to have your ignition switch fail from too much current going thru it.

While getting the headlight relay look at the 3 circut solution or PC8 fuse blocks he sells.They allow for swithec or unswitched circuts to be added.

 

[HansO]

Gday all.
I'm doing a few electrical mods on my bike by installing 2 auxillary power sockets and a set of fog/driving lights.
The first power socket isn't going to be an issue. I've stuck it in the infill panel on the right rear of the engine and it will be direct from the battery with an inline fuse.
The other I'll put up on the headstem when I do my ignition relocation and pick up a trip wire from somewhere and set it up via a relay so it is set to ignition on only.

The problem I'm having is finding a point to pick up for the high beam power so I can activate a relay for the lights.
I'm a little nervous that if I splice into the high beam wire directly that I might draw too much power away from the lighting circuit and cause another problem.
Don't know if a coil on a relay will earth out too much of the lighting power or not, so throw your thoughts in here please guys.

It seems odd to me that there isn't a relay anywhere for the lighting circuit making me think it is all straight thru the ignition. Bit dumb I think.

Have done a search looking for Auxillary plugs (both lighting an power socket) and also thru my online manual but still haven't found an answer. I know that there is one, but where, and how do I identify it from the others.

Appreciate your help.

Cheers. Cobba.

OK we are playing in favourite place again- the rocket most important mod is to put relays into the system because as you have already worked out the full power for the lights runs thru the ignition key resulting in eventually melting the ignition switch, so the fix is easy that is to put relays into system you can either pay aprox $80 + shipping from eastern beaver in the states for a kit or do as I have done my self an for other local captains make you own for around $40 it is very easy and you sound like you might have an idea about electronics there are threads about the fix and I even wrote a bit about it in one of them but if you want save a lot time PM me your phone number or mobile and a good to ring you tomorrow and I will give you a call and explain

 

[mexican]

The best way i found to install fog lights is powering them straight from the battery.

 

[HansO]

Or of the relay mod as I explained, remember here in Australia you must have your driving lights wired thru dip switch

 

[HansO]

As I will explain when I ring ya if hou like

 

[Cobba]

Ok.
Spent the last hour or so scrathing around and working out a few things.

Already got the active power socket sorted. The one that runs thru the ignition will be gone some time down the track via a relay and ignition spice when I move the ignition.

Fitted 2 toggle switches. One on the left to isolate the driving lights. Another on the right will be for isolating the power to the headlight.
I reckon it will be handy for when working on the bike when tuning and stuff where the key is on for long periods.


I'm pretty sure I can hook up the relay trip wire for the driving lights by putting a splice into the highbeam wire. The power for the lights will be battery direct and I doubt that the power used to activate the coil for the relay will add or draw much from the highbeam circuit.
Does anyone see a problem with this???????????
Normally I'd pick up my power from the highbeam relay atip wire, but there isn't one, so I'm a little outside my comfort zone.


Really want to remove the light power supply from the ignition tho. What a dumbarse idea that was on behalf of the factory. All for the sake of saving a relay or 2 on there manufacturing costs.
Will be a simple enough job, but where should I cut the wire at??? Bit like defusing a bomb.
If there's already a thread on this then could you post me a link so I can muddle my way thru it.

Cheers.

 

[Cobba]

Hey.
Thanks Hanso for the phone call today.
Now I am in there doing it, it is so obviously the right way to go about it.
I ended up coming back into the main wiring harness and picking up the hi and lo wires in there.
The original wire is now the trip wire for the relays and I've got a big heavy power wire running up and feeding the relays.

I did end up using 3 individual relays, one for each hi, lo and fog lights (I could have used 1 for both hi and lo but Hanso pointed out it would then be constantly working and may over heat and burn out), and ran extra wiring thru at the same time for another power socket up front when I do the key relocation soon.

Was down to the last few bits and pieces and some tidying up before testing at dusk tonight when I had to give up.
Not that I didn't have good lighting, but the bloody mozzies were so thick that they were about to carry me away.

Am also thinking about re-routing the lighting wire from the starter relay via a switch so I can turn the headlights off at will.
Have a good quality switch already installed and think it should hold up to the draw.
As the old lighting circuit is now only running parker lights and relay activation then, even tho it would be constantly working, I doubt there's that much load that it could burn out the switch is there.
Maybe I should bang it another relay just to be on the safe side

 

[HansO]

Hey.
Thanks Hanso for the phone call today.
Now I am in there doing it, it is so obviously the right way to go about it.
I ended up coming back into the main wiring harness and picking up the hi and lo wires in there.
The original wire is now the trip wire for the relays and I've got a big heavy power wire running up and feeding the relays.

I did end up using 3 individual relays, one for each hi, lo and fog lights (I could have used 1 for both hi and lo but Hanso pointed out it would then be constantly working and may over heat and burn out), and ran extra wiring thru at the same time for another power socket up front when I do the key relocation soon.

Was down to the last few bits and pieces and some tidying up before testing at dusk tonight when I had to give up.
Not that I didn't have good lighting, but the bloody mozzies were so thick that they were about to carry me away.

Am also thinking about re-routing the lighting wire from the starter relay via a switch so I can turn the headlights off at will.
Have a good quality switch already installed and think it should hold up to the draw.
As the old lighting circuit is now only running parker lights and relay activation then, even tho it would be constantly working, I doubt there's that much load that it could burn out the switch is there.
Maybe I should bang it another relay just to be on the safe side

Don't think you need to bother with a relay for the running lights and switching power it would only be a very low amp draw