Infamous Ignition Switch Issue

There is a point on the rocker high/low beam switch where both beams are active, at this point the load would be about doubled. It can happen that you flick the switch and it will stay at that position until moved, this maybe is the condition that breaks the camels back.

Evil Mitch said:

sounds exactly like my problem thanks for posting i will check mine to see if thats the problem

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Exact same problem as mine now. Just started last week and it seems to come back on when you wiggle the wires, like a broken wire. Will follow up and check the contacts

Very old post but .........

bonecarver said:

Please excuse my ignorance with this , but is this due to the headlight staying on when the starter button is pushed?

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Headlights do NOT stay on when the button is pressed - pretty much case on ALL Triumphs

Waftycranker said:

Exact same problem as mine now. Just started last week and it seems to come back on when you wiggle the wires, like a broken wire. Will follow up and check the contacts

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Key-Switch/connector issues very unusual for Roadster - current through key-switch is quite low. (headlight current does not go through switch on Roadster)

And this is the Touring forum.

So just for my own clarification, this is regarding the key ignition switch, not the button on the handle bar? As well, is it still an issue with newer models? Or should I be looking at this EB fix for my '15 touring?

Yes the issue is with the ignition switch where the key goes, NOT/NOT the starter button.

I installed the EB kit in my '14 Touring plus his PC-8 kit for additional take-offs.

Then to make things really neat, you can bypass the ignition switch altogether by installing the keyless ignition of @DEcosse , which I highly recommend, and been installed by a number of folks here.

I found this thread too late. My 2010 R3T is dead. I am going to find that EB kit and put it in for sure, but now what do I do? Is it easy to replace (or fix) the ignition switch?
I installed a tachometer and thought maybe that was the problem, but I have ruled it out. I will be checking the plug under the tank, too. As I was riding all the displays and speedometer were going nuts, I got home (engine cutting out when that was going on, too). Then next time I took it out for a block, no problem. Forgot my phone, so I went back to get it, turned the key and got nothing at all, no lights no panel display, nothing.
I've got some dielectric grease coming from Amazon tomorrow, so I'll go through some connections with that. But I'm not very optimistic. Just sounds like the ignition switch so far.
The bike has 20,000 miles on it, why would this show up now??? Hmm.
I ordered LED lights to replace the OEM ones, too. But will wait till I get everything running again for that.

What about the keyless ignition some of you have mentioned? Would this do the same as replacing the OEM switch? (make my bike work again?)
Getting ready to kick this rocket to the curb and go back to my trusty Kawasaki.