Hello! New to the forum - looking for R3 advice

RideMyRocket said:

Update on this fiasco. Although was told the parts from Triumph would take 8 to 10 days to arrive, it was actually 6 weeks. As expected they blamed it on Covid ya dee ya da. Nonetheless the job is now complete, clicking is gone and when backing up with the ole legs seems to take less effort which makes me wonder how much friction that bad bearing was actually putting on the rotation?

Thanks to all for chiming in offering their opinions and assistance, great community. Cheers and safe riding to all.

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CCjon said:

Which OEM parts were replaced? Just the bearings?

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Journeyman28778 said:

Curious if you torqued the axle to spec this time? Interesting about the cush drive rubbers (I'll check those next time) and will try the Natchi C3 bearings. Be sure to let us know how it goes.

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Gregger said:

Yes, I did torque the axle to 81 ft/lbs as per factory spec. So far everything is good but time will tell.

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Gregger said:

He's right. The spacers are designed to prevent overtorquing the bearings. Once bottomed out, you can't really put more torque on them because all the inner races are locked. BUT there is one spacer by the cush drive that will allow some movement before it bottoms out. I think it will move around 15 to 20 thou in order to compress the cush drive rubber before all the spacers are locked in place. By compressing the cush drive and bottoming out that spacer, you place a side load on the outside bearing by the rotor, that tends to feel like it is really tight when removed. I replaced mine with a top quality C3 Natchi which I hope will take the load. I know a number of the other fellows have ditched the OEM and All Balls wheel bearings replacing them with top quality premium brands with tighter tolerances.

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Gregger said:

He's right. The spacers are designed to prevent overtorquing the bearings. Once bottomed out, you can't really put more torque on them because all the inner races are locked. BUT there is one spacer by the cush drive that will allow some movement before it bottoms out. I think it will move around 15 to 20 thou in order to compress the cush drive rubber before all the spacers are locked in place. By compressing the cush drive and bottoming out that spacer, you place a side load on the outside bearing by the rotor, that tends to feel like it is really tight when removed. I replaced mine with a top quality C3 Natchi which I hope will take the load. I know a number of the other fellows have ditched the OEM and All Balls wheel bearings replacing them with top quality premium brands with tighter tolerances.

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Journeyman28778 said:

@Gregger how have those Natchi C3 bearings worked out for you? Mine are frozen and I need to order right away. How do you know which ones to get and where do you order- from the company or a reseller? I need the ones by the rear caliper. If you have the item # I would be very grateful.

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