Front Rotors

WyldCFH said:

I have a SealMate around here somewhere if you need to use one.

Can't help with the rotors though, sorry amigo. Looks like you have some of the more knowledgeable R3 guys chiming in though.


And quit chasing me... pass me!

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Yeah Yeah Yeah

leatal said:

I had about the same problem with low speed wobble/wallowing after installing a new front tire. Front tire checked OK for balance and true for round. Checked the front forks for play- checked OK. Everything seemed good so for Sh!ts and giggles I retorqued the head bolt IAW the maintenance manual. Problem solved! No more wobble/wallowing at slow speeds.

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That's what I was wanting to hear.

Now, how about the position of the tubes on the yokes? Is there a mark or key to reposition them correctly? It looks like there is a washer under the top cap. Is this an O ring or a washer. The pic on the manual is very poor.

Hey Tooony, let's go ride tomorrow. We can stop at the dealer and see if we can shake him for two new Valkyries. I would trade mine for a new one if the price is right. You could trade the Yamy

1K9 said:

Hey Tooony, let's go ride tomorrow. We can stop at the dealer and see if we can shake him for two new Valkyries. I would trade mine for a new one if the price is right. You could trade the Yamy

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Gotta stick around the house the next couple days. Both of Theresa's parents had surgery today... 1 scheduled, 1 unexpected, both doing well but in the hospital a day or two.

I can't make up my mind what I want, nor can I decide wether to trade the Street Triple. The Yammie is going to Frank, his EX 500 got run over while parked a year or so ago and is unridable. So giving the Yammie to him. Plus those Valks don't have ABS...




or

F 850 GS Adventure Premium Exclusive


or

R 1250 GS Adventure Premium Rally

TURBO200R4 said:

FIRST IF U GRAB THE ROTOR AND CAN PULL IT OFF BY HAND THEN REPLACE IT IF NOT DON'T WORRY ABOUT IT.(SORRY CAPS)i worried about mine for years and checked them all the time now i don't even check them.
if it wobbles at 5 to 10 i would check to see if the beads r properly seated. maybe get the front wheel of the ground and rotate it while watching.
.
unless u have run the pads metal to metal i would think they r all right. u can always post a pic.
i would not put thinner rotors the ones on there r thin enough

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The beads are well seated and the pads are not and have never been metal to metal.

My guess is that the tire is crap. I hope I'm wrong.

1K9 said:

That's what I was wanting to hear.

Now, how about the position of the tubes on the yokes? Is there a mark or key to reposition them correctly? It looks like there is a washer under the top cap. Is this an O ring or a washer. The pic on the manual is very poor.

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Manual shows the top of the tube lip sitting flush with the top of the yoke. The O-ring and cap should be the only thing above the top of the yoke. Mine was like that when I removed it and I returned it to the same position. Truthfully, I don't think it really matters as long as both sides are set the same.

leatal said:

Manual shows the top of the tube lip sitting flush with the top of the yoke. The O-ring and cap should be the only thing above the top of the yoke. Mine was like that when I removed it and I returned it to the same position. Truthfully, I don't think it really matters as long as both sides are set the same.

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So the O ring is a flat O ring between the cap and the tube?
It matters because if you go bellow that mark you start changing the rake.

1K9 said:

The don't rattle unless you grab the disc and push it clock and counter clockwise. As far as heat, going downhill in the Smokey's, the'll get hot even with engine braking. It's not going to be red hot, but they will get hot.

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Wait! - The have free play in the direction of rotation? If so they are toast.
Some side to side play, maybe. But rotational! - they will start to get worse and faster than you think. Something has oval-ed.

My current choice would be PFM from the Isle of Mann. They do various types. I would go for SPORT and soft soft pads.

Had a wobble on my bike. Started around 40,000 miles. Adjusted head bearings and still had a wobble. Then we noticed that Truimph recommends lubricating bearings at 20,000 miles. So we took the entire front suspension off the bike. (Upgraded to progressive springs) To my surprise the bearings had some kind of slim on them by no means would i call it grease. Upon inspection went ahead and replaced bearings and races. Packed bearings with real grease. Reassembled and have never had a problem since then. The original bearings were never greased properly and flat wore out. Low speed wobble and high speed wobble disappeared. Forks go back in with lip of outer tube even with top of yoke. What 0 ring are you referring to? Good stuff. Front rotors thickness standard is 5.0MM Service limit is 4.5MM Disc run out standard 0.1MM service limit 0.3MM. Rear rotor standard 7.5MM service limit 6.5 MM. Disc run-out 0.15 service limit. Any of the rotors reach the service limit replace. Yes they do wear out over time especially when using sinstered pads. You play you pay. Along with the cam upgrade another item on my to do list is to get the top yoke powder coated. (among other items) I will be adjusting the steering bearings at this time and will post pics in detail. Pinch bolts and tires can cause problems BUT