floor board options

kblahetka

Supercharged
Joined
Sep 10, 2012
Messages
330
Location
Bolingbrook, IL
Ride
2005 r3
I have a 2005 and I want driver floor boards. Not worried about a heel toe shifter. What are my options? I can't find driver ones on the net.
 
... I just added Kuryakyn floorboards to my 2016 R3Roadster and like them a lot! Go to kuryakyn website and do your search there for year, make, model and style of the floorboard you want (you will have to purchase the correct Kuryakyn 'splined adapter' for your bike)! The kuryakyn parts I used were their #4357 wrinkle black floorboards (they also have their #4351 'chrome premium' floorboards) and their #8841 splined adapters for 'front mount only' on my bike. These measure about 4 1/2 inches wide and 8 3/8 inches long, some minor gear shifter and rear brake pedal height adjustment might be needed?
 
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I bought these from Rivco awhile ago and they've held up nicely through the years. I don't have crash bars and the one time i dropped it they saved my bike from getting scratched up. The problem being they have discontinued these for reasons unknown to me. I get a lot of riders asking me where i got them. I found these passenger floor boards on E-bay I'm sure there are a pair out there for sale. If not Kuryakyn makes a nice pair too.

Rivco Billet Passenger Floorboards - TR3005 | eBay
 
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... I just added Kuryakyn floorboards to my 2016 R3Roadster and like them a lot! Go to kuryakyn website and do your search there for year, make, model and style of the floorboard you want (you will have to purchase the correct Kuryakyn 'splined adapter' for your bike)! The kuryakyn parts I used were their #4357 wrinkle black floorboards (they also have their #4351 'chrome premium' floorboards) and their #8841 splined adapters for 'front mount only' on my bike. These measure about 4 1/2 inches wide and 8 3/8 inches long, some minor gear shifter and rear brake pedal height adjustment might be needed?

Do you get much more forward positioning? My thinking is no you just get a floorboard right where the peg is. Please correct me if I'm wrong. I want floorboards but more forward like the tourings have and the only solution I have found is to buy touring rails, floorboards and all the other stuff. Quite costly (around $1,000) so I haven't done it.
 
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Do you get much more forward positioning? My thinking is no you just get a floorboard right where the peg is. Please correct me if I'm wrong. I want floorboards but more forward like the tourings have and the only solution I have found is to buy touring rails, floorboards and all the other stuff. Quite costly (around $1,000) so I haven't done it.
... well there is five (5) different mounting options for up, down, forward and backwards and then there is several 'tilt angle' adjustments via the 'splined adapter' and the splined receptacle molded into the floorboards themselves. Go to the Kuryakyn website and look up the item numbers I included in the above post for kblahetka and you will see the adjustment options, etc. *I also thought about using the touring model rails, boards and etc. but would have cost me $1102.48 at the Triumph dealer here (including their installation of them too!)
 
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... well there is five (5) different mounting options for up, down, forward and backwards and then there is several 'tilt angle' adjustments via the 'splined adapter' and the splined receptacle molded into the floorboards themselves. Go to the Kuryakyn website and look up the item numbers I included in the above post for kblahetka and you will see the adjustment options, etc. *I also thought about using the touring model rails, boards and etc. but would have cost me $1102.48 at the Triumph dealer here (including their installation of them too!)

Yeah I went for these in chrome for the 5 position options and wanting to increase cornering clearance by using the lower rear hole. It is achievable but the limitations are the stock brake and gear shift levers. If you want increased clearance you cannot tilt the boards up at the front as it restricts room to get your toes under gear lever or clearance between end of right board and brake pedal and the front end of right board being higher than brake pedal. It is a compromise. The gear lever can only be adjusted and raised so much and then although still connected it will not actually action upshifts.

You can have your footboards more forward than pegs but only by using the upper rear hole of the 3 available and this will reduce or certainly not improve cornering clearance. The other option which gives maximum cornering clearance and does allow a more foot forward is to use 1" clamp mounted pegs forward of the gear and brake levers on the peg rail. Then you can use your heel on the boards and your toes on the front pegs. This also allows an additional position when you have h'way pegs on your tip-over bars as you can place your heels on the rail mounted pegs and your toes on the h'way pegs. On a long ride having 4 foot position options is a real boon! You even get a 5th as you can place just your toes on the back of the boards as well.

I have still touched the edges of the boards but they swing up easily and only contact for a 1/2 " or so as long as you don't try to angle them up at the front which is likely to reduce clearance.

If someone can advise if it possible to rotate the Roadster's rear foot brake lever upwards (anti-clockwise) on its shaft in the non-engaged position so that the rubber pad is higher it would be a big advantage.
Currently this limits both the angle of the Right board but also the ease of pressing it down at all. Luckily it is a strong brake and engages with little lever movement but its use is still marginalised with the foot board.
 
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"The other option which gives maximum cornering clearance and does allow a more foot forward is to use 1" clamp mounted pegs forward of the gear and brake levers on the peg rail."

@Ishrub...any recommendations


Yeah I went for these in chrome for the 5 position options and wanting to increase cornering clearance by using the lower rear hole. It is achievable but the limitations are the stock brake and gear shift levers. If you want increased clearance you cannot tilt the boards up at the front as it restricts room to get your toes under gear lever or clearance between end of right board and brake pedal and the front end of right board being higher than brake pedal. It is a compromise. The gear lever can only be adjusted and raised so much and then although still connected it will not actually action upshifts.

You can have your footboards more forward than pegs but only by using the upper rear hole of the 3 available and this will reduce or certainly not improve cornering clearance. The other option which gives maximum cornering clearance and does allow a more foot forward is to use 1" clamp mounted pegs forward of the gear and brake levers on the peg rail. Then you can use your heel on the boards and your toes on the front pegs. This also allows an additional position when you have h'way pegs on your tip-over bars as you can place your heels on the rail mounted pegs and your toes on the h'way pegs. On a long ride having 4 foot position options is a real boon! You even get a 5th as you can place just your toes on the back of the boards as well.

I have still touched the edges of the boards but they swing up easily and only contact for a 1/2 " or so as long as you don't try to angle them up at the front which is likely to reduce clearance.

If someone can advise if it possible to rotate the Roadster's rear foot brake lever upwards (anti-clockwise) on its shaft in the non-engaged position so that the rubber pad is higher it would be a big advantage.
Currently this limits both the angle of the Right board but also the ease of pressing it down at all. Luckily it is a strong brake and engages with little lever movement but its use is still marginalised with the foot board.


@Ishrub...You Sir are a wealth of information. Now if we can just get someone to reply to the foot brake lever question life once again, would be perfect!:)
 
"The other option which gives maximum cornering clearance and does allow a more foot forward is to use 1" clamp mounted pegs forward of the gear and brake levers on the peg rail."

@Ishrub...any recommendations





@Ishrub...You Sir are a wealth of information. Now if we can just get someone to reply to the foot brake lever question life once again, would be perfect!:)

All up these cost about AU$100 (US$75) delivered for pegs and offset mounts. Similar or identical Chinese made units are available on Amazon or US eBay for similar prices. This seller does not ship to the US for some reason.

I used these for the 1" clamps onto the peg rails - They are a bugger to tighten with the 19mm ring and or open spanner as you wont get a socket behind the peg rail to fully engage when they need the final tightening and they need to be VERY VERY tight to prevent movement and rotation on the peg rail. The easiest way is after initial tightening to jam lock the ring or open ender in place with a wood or rubber chock and then use a 2"x1" or similar block of wood and hammer/mallet to tap the offset to achieve final tightening.
Front Foot Rest FootPegs Adjustable For Kawasaki Ninja 250R 500R 600R 650R 750R | eBay
Aftermarket Parts 100% New

High class quality

Material: High Quality Billet Aluminum

360 degree fully adjustable for a comfortable ride.

Position: Front

Color: Chrome

Note: This item is a multiple application product, the Installing Size is 22mm-25mm. It is not a specific application product. It will fit more motorcycles than we hace it listed to fit here . if you want to buy this for an application that is not lite in this as ,please contact us before buying one to find out if it will fit your motorcycle.

These Highway pegs allow riders a range of adjustment that is not possible with other clamp-on style highway pegs. The offset can be rotated 360° in a 7"diameter circle to accommodate tall ,short ,or average heights riders .These can be installed on any round tubing (frames or engine guards),but it is important to keep in mind that the footpeg itself will end up perpendicular to the bar to which it is mounted.

FITMENT

Fits any bikes with 22mm-25mm engine guard or frame tube,Great for Harley Davidson/Honda/Yamaha/Kawasaki/BSA/Norton/Triumph Bobber,Chopper,Cafe racer,ATV,UTV,Scooter,etc

Pacakge Include:



They take any Harley type peg but a fairly simple round one is best so it does not foul the brake lever.

Chrome Footpeg Foot Pegs For Harley Davidson Softail FXST DYNA FXWG FXR XL new | eBay

Chrome Footpeg Foot Pegs For Harley Davidson Softail FXST DYNA FXWG FXR XL new

FEATURES:

Aftermarket 100% New

High class quality and very durable Good Working

WIDTH OF MALE MOUNT: ½”

MOUNT HOLE I.D.: 3/8”

Color: Same As Picture Show

Fitment:

HARLEY SOFTAIL FXST, DYNA, FXWG, FXR, XL

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upload_2017-2-20_5-55-22.png
 
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Yeah I went for these in chrome for the 5 position options and wanting to increase cornering clearance by using the lower rear hole. It is achievable but the limitations are the stock brake and gear shift levers. If you want increased clearance you cannot tilt the boards up at the front as it restricts room to get your toes under gear lever or clearance between end of right board and brake pedal and the front end of right board being higher than brake pedal. It is a compromise. The gear lever can only be adjusted and raised so much and then although still connected it will not actually action upshifts.

You can have your footboards more forward than pegs but only by using the upper rear hole of the 3 available and this will reduce or certainly not improve cornering clearance. The other option which gives maximum cornering clearance and does allow a more foot forward is to use 1" clamp mounted pegs forward of the gear and brake levers on the peg rail. Then you can use your heel on the boards and your toes on the front pegs. This also allows an additional position when you have h'way pegs on your tip-over bars as you can place your heels on the rail mounted pegs and your toes on the h'way pegs. On a long ride having 4 foot position options is a real boon! You even get a 5th as you can place just your toes on the back of the boards as well.

I have still touched the edges of the boards but they swing up easily and only contact for a 1/2 " or so as long as you don't try to angle them up at the front which is likely to reduce clearance.

If someone can advise if it possible to rotate the Roadster's rear foot brake lever upwards (anti-clockwise) on its shaft in the non-engaged position so that the rubber pad is higher it would be a big advantage.
Currently this limits both the angle of the Right board but also the ease of pressing it down at all. Luckily it is a strong brake and engages with little lever movement but its use is still marginalised with the foot board.
... I too would like to know about possible rotation of rear brake lever and/or pad (mine does not have a bolt on pad, appears all one piece metal with slip on rubber pad). I adjusted all I could with adjustment on lever rod at mounting point and raised it approx. 3/8 inch, not much but it did help some!
 
... I too would like to know about possible rotation of rear brake lever and/or pad (mine does not have a bolt on pad, appears all one piece metal with slip on rubber pad). I adjusted all I could with adjustment on lever rod at mounting point and raised it approx. 3/8 inch, not much but it did help some!

I have same one piece metal rear brake pedal with slip on rubber pad but I am not sure I found the brake pedal adjustment on my Roadster. Please explain how.
 
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