Enlisting Mufasa for Salt Duty

Speedy said:

Do the rules allow a non-stock radiator? Narrower would be really helpful.

Click to expand...

It is allowed since the bike will be in the partially streamlined class already due to the added front fairing and existing fender changes. I need to refresh my knowledge on drag vs CG and where to position each for stability, I suspect I currently have them less than ideally situated.

October (or whenever parts arrive) test will be just me in "Mexico"

Regarding getting seat time before the salt; once assembled I intend to bring the bike to Jerry, or bring Jerry to the bike, so he can get some seat time on it, assuming we can work out a amenable schedule to do so.

Currently: Still waiting on parts :/ Some are on Triumph backorder, I know, shocking...

Going to pick up a Busa clutch and a couple front cover gaskets as a spare, not sure which yet. I'm still using the stock original clutch w/APE springs. It's probably fine, but it's something I need to have around anyway.

I have the Deget inquiry submitted. Waiting on an answer for narrowing to 6" or 6.5" and increasing to 17" diameter. They've not done one before it seems, only widened them. It's not a show stopper if they can't, but it means traction will be even more precious if not.

If they can narrow it to 6 or 6.5, tire will be 200/55 or 200/60, non-slick, something like a RS11, Cup 2, or Supercorsa SP. Dunlop is out due to recent experiences people have had on track with them delaminating (and ultra stiff sidewalls). Metzler is dead to me, so Pirelli, Michelin, and Bridgestone remain.

If they can't narrow the rim, my backup plan is to bring a wheel with the Exedra Max and a wheel with a Cobra Chrome plus an extra of each tire.

The E-max I trust to survive just fine, it's fairly hard, quite strong, and I've had it over 180 before and over 160 countless times without issue. The Chrome is an unknown to me, but should have better grip, how well it copes with salt abrasion will be the question and the profile is better for the salt.

On a 240 tire plus note, they're 86/87 weight rated and will be carrying FAR less than a stock bike, so the forces will be much lower than their design parameters required when tested for their sidewall ratings.

Speedy said:

Do the rules allow a non-stock radiator? Narrower would be really helpful.

Click to expand...

Or possibly angling it back some.

I had a an idea for working out front wheel down force. Time for a little CAD in blender and some metal 3d printing magic . I love living in 2022 lol.

What about adding micro sipes to the rear tire ? Those little lines can add a ton of grip.

eating a pot of beans might help a little

Parts finally shipped, will arrive tomorrow. Yay. Shortest Triumph backorder I've ever seen, lucky.

Could be I'm riding Mufasa to school on Monday

Memory refreshed on CP vs CG. I think I've isolated what change needs to be made to make it stable on the salt.

First change is the narrow radiator, it will shift CP rearward significantly.

The CG on Mufasa is about 2" behind cylinder #3's centerline. The CP will be easier to manipulate using fairing selection. Too big and CP will be pulled forward, too little or no fairing and CF may impeed top speed too much.

I think I'll start with the Angry fly screen I have, it's a known quantity that does improve CD slightly while not causing instability from CP/CG misalignment.

If that's not enough streamling the bigger fairing can go on, but it definitely creates a CP/CG risk, essentially causing the bike to want to turn ass first.

I could also fashion a lead mount point below the radiator and shift the CG forward and down significantly by hanging 50-100 lbs low and forward. This would directly counteract rider induced drag which is above and behind the rear fender.

All things I can work on in the cold dark winter ahead to improve high speed stability.

It now makes sense that all the record holding rocket 3s I've seen pictures of are mostly, or fully, naked in the headlight area.

I guess I should know, but will a R3 touring rear wheel fit ?

If modding a stock rim is not practical, adapters to make a Touring rim fit are likey possible and cheaper.
Mounting a radiator lower and angled back may reduce frontal area and add downforce. A small radiator is all that is needed above 100mph. My first guess would be less than 100 in/sq area provided reasonably clean air flow. Also print a replacement headlight somewhat bullet shaped (like the large end of an egg) to help direct air around the bikes CP. Then make its mount so fore/aft and central axis angular positions are adjustable.

I just love bench racing!

100 inches square is 10,000 square inches, which I suspect may be a little too large.

The equivalent of Mufasa's first yawn after a long nap. First time out of the garage in ~3 years. Time was not kind, I have much to do, lots of visual blemishes I'll eventually need to correct, but those are secondary to mechanical at this point.

Rear brakes rebuilt, panels reinstalled, trying the batteries to see if they'll hold a charge (I suspect not). It turns on, but no pump prime, so voltage is way low

Next on the list:
Batteries
Add fuel
Prime with injectors unplugged
Start (yes I'll record it) 2 years and 11 months since the last time
Replace fluid/bleed all brakes
Torque verify all safety critical fasteners