Emission removal

[Bill Robinson]

Okay removed all the bits in the picture, capped off all TB connections six in all, bike now running rough will run but idols roughly plus have to twist the throttle to start it up, have I removed something I should not have I know all I have to do is put everything back on and it will be fine but I really want rid of those hoses also check engine light staying on even after a five mile run not connected my ecu cable to check it yet.

I am in process of removing the fuel evap. canister. New lines and plugs on carbs but what to do with electric hookup on canister? Also installed a RamAir system on the bike and got rid of all that ducting. Made hooking up Triumph spotlights a lot easier.

Bill

I am in process of removing the fuel evap. canister. New lines and plugs on carbs but what to do with electric hookup on canister? Also installed a RamAir system on the bike and got rid of all that ducting. Made hooking up Triumph spotlights a lot easier.

Bill

Also noticed that the charcoal canister had HONDA molded on it. I figure, if you get rid of stuff you don't really need, that much less to crap out on you later

 

[warp9.9]

Bob you said four 5/32"caps are required if I remove all my hoses I will need six caps!!!!!! I plan on doing it on a 2011Roadster are you sure it was four?

@scot in exile remember three of the hose coming from the throttle bodies run to the map sensor I do not think you want to pull them unless you set your F to L switch over to zero so it does not look for input from the Map sensor. It will still need to be plugged in though to not throw a code. I would just worry about the ones that deal with the emissions crap.

 

[rocketjohn]

@scot in exile remember three of the hose coming from the throttle bodies run to the map sensor I do not think you want to pull them unless you set your F to L switch over to zero so it does not look for input from the Map sensor. It will still need to be plugged in though to not throw a code. I would just worry about the ones that deal with the emissions crap.

One would be careful to examine hose routing and not pull the wrong ones!

 

[Russell]

Also noticed that the charcoal canister had HONDA molded on it. I figure, if you get rid of stuff you don't really need, that much less to crap out on you later

Can someone help me understand this? Why are we removing the canister? Do we expect a performance increase? I haven't experienced any of the problems OP is describing on my '16 R3R. I would like to put a soundbomb in the space but am fearful of removing the part...

 

[Bob R]

Why are we removing the canister?

If for no other reason think of it as weight reduction and allowing you to mount your horn in an unobtrusive place. That and it makes Al Gore and tree huggers cry.

bob

 

[BigNorm]

What he said. It allows room for other things

 

[Idaho Red Rocket 3]

Making space for something you want is the only reason to remove the canister. It doesn't do anything plus or minus for performance. Well maybe minus if you don't reinstall the vacuum hoses correctly.

 

[Joesmoe]

I removed mine to make room for the series rectifier/regulator recommended by @DEcosse .

Still thinking I'm going to purchase one of those obnoxious, chromed, dual bell horns, mounted on one of the front engine dresser bars.

 

[BigNorm]

I removed mine to make room for the series rectifier/regulator recommended by @DEcosse .

Still thinking I'm going to purchase one of those obnoxious, chromed, dual bell horns, mounted on one of the front engine dresser bars.

"La coocaracha! La coocaracha!"

 

[refined insanity]

This thread covers it pretty well. You can either remove all of the hoses and cap the tits on the throttle bodies or just cap/plug the line labeled pipe B in the above thread. I was going to balance my throttle bodies so I removed all of the hoses while I had access. It will take four 5/32" caps to put on the throttle bodies if you remove all of the hoses. You will also need a length of hose to run from the roll-over valve to the ground.

It was pretty straight forward. Don't bother looking for bolts or nuts holding the canister in place, it is zip-tied in place. Just cut the zip ties and it will fall into your hands. If you have a full tank tank of gas before you tilt the tank you may want to put a small piece of hose on the bottom of the roll over valve and plug it.

It opens up quite a bit of space behind the side cover. Quite a few people have mounted a Stebel horn there.



bob

wow. thanks for all the useful intel. totally tits! youre the man, bob!!! good luck everyone, and have a happy New Year!!