Do I need a clutch?

[A3rik]

Ok, so I finally got to take my new 08 R3s out for its first ride yesterday, and notice led that it was ****ed tricky to shift into second- it felt like the clutch wasn't fully engaged and I was bouncing off the gear back into neutral, particularly at higher revs (4-5k).

I read all the posts about clutch cable adjustment and ended up following the advice about using the cable sheath to measure 2-3mm (I tried the "feel the lifter shaft" method, but I couldn't definitively tell when I was feeling it bump). At this setting, shifting into second was much easier, but it was slipping at higher revs.

Did I take out too much freeplay if I can measure 2-3 mm with the cable sheath pulled out? Or is the cable adjusted properly and my clutch is just worn out? It has barely 7k miles on it, but I don't know what the previous owners may have done.

If I need to buy a clutch, I'm seeing mention of a necessary update, but I'm unclear about what years this applies to.

 

[JRock]

7K miles is nothing under normal use.
The previous owner may have burned up the clutch, hence the slipping.

The Update is actually a fix for popping out of 2nd gear after the 1-2 shift under hard acceleration.
They decreased the number of engagement fingers in the 2nd gear dog ring.

It is in kit form and includes many other fixes unrelated to the trans.
The kit price increased dramatically over the last 10 years. It used to cost $125 or thereabouts.

 

[warp9.9]

What's the last 6 of the vin number?

 

[A3rik]

319861. Is the kit like a recall thing, or something I'd need to buy and install myself? I've done clutches and other minor repairs on my bikes over the years, but I'm not super eager to really tear this new one apart, haha.

 

[Turk]

Ok, so I finally got to take my new 08 R3s out for its first ride yesterday, and notice led that it was ****ed tricky to shift into second- it felt like the clutch wasn't fully engaged and I was bouncing off the gear back into neutral, particularly at higher revs (4-5k).

I read all the posts about clutch cable adjustment and ended up following the advice about using the cable sheath to measure 2-3mm (I tried the "feel the lifter shaft" method, but I couldn't definitively tell when I was feeling it bump). At this setting, shifting into second was much easier, but it was slipping at higher revs.

Did I take out too much freeplay if I can measure 2-3 mm with the cable sheath pulled out? Or is the cable adjusted properly and my clutch is just worn out? It has barely 7k miles on it, but I don't know what the previous owners may have done.

If I need to buy a clutch, I'm seeing mention of a necessary update, but I'm unclear about what years this applies to.

1st If it is your clutch you will have it happening in all gears.

To test out your front tyre To the curb as if you are trying to do an assisted burn out and put the bike under load in 3-4-5 gears and see if it slips. If it does then you are lucky; It is the clutch.

2nd check if the problem is the dentent spring. I never had the problem my self but from what I real the bike will stay in gear if you support holding the gear shifter in place with your left foot where the problem happens.

Now the the 33rd scenario is your gears and selector forks being toast. Then you are up to a rebuild. There are a lot of articles on.this forum which you can read on that matter. I recently had to do a full rebuild for the same issue...

Goodluck

 

[A3rik]

Maybe I should clarify- once it actually goes into second, I've not had it pop back out, it just really doesn't want to go into second unless I adjust the freeplay way down.

Hmm, the slip does seem to be happening in all gears when I have the cable adjusted according to the advice on the forum.

Is it correct that I should be able to pull the cable sheath back (hard) and measure 2-3mm there?

 

[Turk]

Maybe I should clarify- once it actually goes into second, I've not had it pop back out, it just really doesn't want to go into second unless I adjust the freeplay way down.

Hmm, the slip does seem to be happening in all gears when I have the cable adjusted according to the advice on the forum.

Is it correct that I should be able to pull the cable sheath back (hard) and measure 2-3mm there?

Did you have your clutch replaced by someone else?

If yes most possibly the your clutch had been assembled wrong. I had a problem after I installed my Barnette out and the bike just didn't want to go into 2nd gear specially when it was cold and low RPM's

There is a certain order the friction plates go and one of the friction plates has a different fiber pattern to the rest which is the one running off the judder.

Once fixed the problem was gone and the clutch was a delight

 

[A3rik]

I have no clue what may have been done on the bike in the past- it only delivered on Friday, and last night was the first time I got to ride it. It's certainly possible the previous owner made some mistake, but I can't say.

 

[Turk]

I have no clue what may have been done on the bike in the past- it only delivered on Friday, and last night was the first time I got to ride it. It's certainly possible the previous owner made some mistake, but I can't say.

Sounds like your easiest option is to inspect your clutch. 2-3 hour job without rushing.

There is a video on YouTube I believe.

But yep pull your radiator off and take the front cover off. It is pretty basic from there.

Make sure you have a torque wrench.

 

[Triple Trouble]

Is it correct that I should be able to pull the cable sheath back (hard) and measure 2-3mm there?

NO! Gently pull the cable sheath. The easiest way to check is make sure you have plenty of slack regardless of how it shifts and when you get it in fourth or fifth hammer the gas and see if it still slips. Two problems of you continue to ride with too little slack: You will burn out the lifter shaft and/or you will burn out your clutch plates. With only 7k miles on it the shifting will be a bit stiff and will get easier as the miles go on.