sleeves

Nitrous
Joined
Dec 8, 2008
Messages
1,196
Location
Backblocks, Waikato, New Zealand
Ride
05 R3 Std
Gday

So this afternoon I drove round to @Paul Bryant place and we made use of his very useful pressure tester.

Together we had.

1. Set of Barnett Clutch Springs
2. Set of MTC Clutch Springs
3. A locally made copy of the Barnett Springs by and old couple in Hawkes Bay
4. Set of OEM Springs out of my bike known to be slipping.

We ran two tests and repeated the tests. First test was compressing the springs until 60psi was reached the longest measurement was sought, in this the Barnett and locally made unit came out best followed by the MTC and finally the OEM.

Next we compressed all springs to a distance of 25mm (around 1") and read the pressure. The Barnett was best again, followed by the copy, then the MTC, then the OEM.

Not recommending brands here or anything this is just what we found and all three options are going to be better than the OEM springs.

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20180611_164343.jpg

Paul's lovely homemade pressure tester
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Spunds like the test I seen last year only had a set of carpenter springs verses your locally grown springs. Carpenter, Barnett, and MTC. Is the way they fared out. Assuming yoi are pressed for time are you going to shim the barnets to get a little more out of them or do you have another connection? I will call MTC and see if Kevin has any input.
 
I definitely noticed a difference in clutch "pull" with my Barnett set. NO slipping either! Just be sure to use the stupid judder spring and it's washer. I left it out on my install, and occasionally get some juddering going on with clutch pulled in, sorta like the plates are flopping around.
 
Spunds like the test I seen last year only had a set of carpenter springs verses your locally grown springs. Carpenter, Barnett, and MTC. Is the way they fared out. Assuming yoi are pressed for time are you going to shim the barnets to get a little more out of them or do you have another connection? I will call MTC and see if Kevin has any input.

Hi Warp, appreciate any input from the spring suppliers here, the Barnetts had the best performance of the springs we had. I was under the impression (and will stand corrected) with springs that packing/shimming springs or stretching etc didn't improve spring loads, it was to do with the tesion in the wire itself. This is why we ran two tests, how quickly the spring got to 60psi and pressure at 25mm (1"). I didn't want to got much more than 25mm as we didn't want the spring to bind give a false reading.

Know from other posts you've done a lot of work on clutches.

Easy enough to shim but it wouldn't be much would it?

Have replaced the detent spring last night and have started reassemble have a new main plate with larger bearing and actuator, I recall reading somewhere you dont use some of the shims? Do I just refer to the R3R manual for the reassembly? Hope this is clear.
 
Hi Warp, appreciate any input from the spring suppliers here, the Barnetts had the best performance of the springs we had. I was under the impression (and will stand corrected) with springs that packing/shimming springs or stretching etc didn't improve spring loads, it was to do with the tesion in the wire itself. This is why we ran two tests, how quickly the spring got to 60psi and pressure at 25mm (1"). I didn't want to got much more than 25mm as we didn't want the spring to bind give a false reading.

Know from other posts you've done a lot of work on clutches.

Easy enough to shim but it wouldn't be much would it?

Have replaced the detent spring last night and have started reassemble have a new main plate with larger bearing and actuator, I recall reading somewhere you dont use some of the shims? Do I just refer to the R3R manual for the reassembly? Hope this is clear.
On some of the roadster clutches around 2012 had the what they called a shim I call it a washer. For which i see it does absolutely nothing ecvept rin out in the groove of the lifter piece and rattle.

P8180026_zpsaaded1db.jpg


P8180024_zps945dfcd3.jpg


I leave it out.
 
Just a thought.

If we know what the ideal spring spec is - Wire size, internal/external diameters and coil spacing. Why not just have springs made? - I have done this in the past for other springs and it was ALWAYS cheaper
 
I definitely noticed a difference in clutch "pull" with my Barnett set. NO slipping either! Just be sure to use the stupid judder spring and it's washer. I left it out on my install, and occasionally get some juddering going on with clutch pulled in, sorta like the plates are flopping around.

Hi Cooter

Is this this part
On some of the roadster clutches around 2012 had the what they called a shim I call it a washer. For which i see it does absolutely nothing ecvept rin out in the groove of the lifter piece and rattle.

P8180026_zpsaaded1db.jpg


P8180024_zps945dfcd3.jpg


I leave it out.

Thanks Warp this was a part, I wasn't sure whether I needed or not, will leave out.
 
Just a thought.

If we know what the ideal spring spec is - Wire size, internal/external diameters and coil spacing. Why not just have springs made? - I have done this in the past for other springs and it was ALWAYS cheaper

Gday

This is what the locally made spring was in our tests. I took the Barnett springs down to a place where an old couple make springs and had them make me two sets to the same, most of the cost was in the set up for the springs. They perform nearly identical to the Barnett but are not as nicely finished. Didn't really need them but have another Rocket in the shed that I may change out to these springs.
 
No, the "judder spring and washer" are in the clutch pack itself. Fits all the way in the back of the clutch pack.
 
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