Clutch failure .... need some advice

Ok not being a expert I have always check free play on any rocket I walk up to in a dealership. Right after I wipe the drool off my chin. Rarely do I find one that has the proper free play set as per the manual. At least 80% of them do not have it set right.

Now that being said I took a little look at the ipone oil I would like to dig into it further but am having some issue with Anderson window company and the overall lack of quality in there products. So bad that 10 AM and I want a beer.

Anyway is it a detergent or nondetergent track racing oil. The reason I ask is the difference being track oils usually will not last long on the road and get dumped after the race verses a detergent oil that is designed to run for extended amounts of miles. I never seen steel as black as those . Usually burnt steels that I have seen have some blue to the also of course your might be extra burnt or the lighting in the picture is playing with my eyes. When you go back together with it try a different oil. Say like mobile 1 4rt 15w50 or some motul oil. Even ams oil makes a good 20w50 motor cycle oil. Hopefully @Neville Lush we come along with some input. (Which I would listen to him before listening to me)
Sorry but I have to get back on the ladders and work.
 
blip said:
Also ... thanks for the device on the wavy washer everyone. I've got it on order so I can finish up the repair.
Click to expand...

ah so you are running an aftermarket fiber & steel setup, it's not a stock Roadster clutch that broke.
if i was you i'd be finding the root cause of the failure before putting it all back together
 
R-III-R Turbo said:
ah so you are running an aftermarket fiber & steel setup, it's not a stock Roadster clutch that broke.
if i was you i'd be finding the root cause of the failure before putting it all back together
Click to expand...
Now that Arto brought it up, which makes me think a wee bit more you better check and make sure the fiber furthest in at the bottom of the clutch clears the anti judder ring and seat or it will slip some and burn up. This is why triumph has a special fiber for the bottom of the clutch pack.
 
R-III-R Turbo said:
ah so you are running an aftermarket fiber & steel setup, it's not a stock Roadster clutch that broke.
if i was you i'd be finding the root cause of the failure before putting it all back together
Click to expand...

Interesting .... so the last fiber should be a different width? If it isn't should I remove teh anti-judder ring?

As for the root cause .... the root cause of the original failure I am pretty sure I know. The root cause for the lifter pin I am not sure .... Warp was thinking it was improper free play ..... that is what the dealer said also, I am thinking it's either that or it was damaged in the original failure and then let go.
 
To clarify the last or bottom fiber has a large inside diameter to clear the outside diameter of the anti judder ring and seat. Without this the bottom fiber does not seat well on the inner pressure face of the inner clutch hub. Its spins instead of gripping it. More wear equals more slip. This is noted in the shop manual.
 

I have the same scratches....????
 
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