Brake leak

[vicvet]

Leaking from whatever this is. Checked the tightness of the front nut and it was ok. How do I fix it and where is it in the manual. Anybody got part numbers?

 

[TURBO200R4]

i call those banjo brake fittings they have a washer
4 that should be there.
i would replace and then see if it fixes the problem be careful of the torque on that bolt it is hollow.

 

[Ishrub]

If you follow the links you will find these images on active screens which will highlight the part selected and if you click on the part number in the image it will have the details pop up of all options and part numbers over time and when you click on these a further detailed pop up with description part number price in Aussie dollars and any notes etc appears.
This is the best Triumph parts catalogue on line that I have ever found and I have used dozens!

North West Motorcycles - ROCKET III, CLASSIC & ROADSTER 0 - ABS Components - Roadster Only

Browse OEM Parts for Triumph ROCKET III, CLASSIC & ROADSTER 0 ABS Components - Roadster Only

www.northwestmotorcycles.com.au

North West Motorcycles - ROCKET III, CLASSIC & ROADSTER 0 - Rear Brake Master Cylinder, Reservoir & Pedal - Roadster

Browse OEM Parts for Triumph ROCKET III, CLASSIC & ROADSTER 0 Rear Brake Master Cylinder, Reservoir & Pedal - Roadster

www.northwestmotorcycles.com.au

 

[Wdugan9080]

If you follow the links you will find these images on active screens which will highlight the part selected and if you click on the part number in the image it will have the details pop up of all options and part numbers over time and when you click on these a further detailed pop up with description part number price in Aussie dollars and any notes etc appears.
This is the best Triumph parts catalogue on line that I have ever found and I have used dozens!

North West Motorcycles - ROCKET III, CLASSIC & ROADSTER 0 - ABS Components - Roadster Only

Browse OEM Parts for Triumph ROCKET III, CLASSIC & ROADSTER 0 ABS Components - Roadster Only

www.northwestmotorcycles.com.au

North West Motorcycles - ROCKET III, CLASSIC & ROADSTER 0 - Rear Brake Master Cylinder, Reservoir & Pedal - Roadster

Browse OEM Parts for Triumph ROCKET III, CLASSIC & ROADSTER 0 Rear Brake Master Cylinder, Reservoir & Pedal - Roadster

www.northwestmotorcycles.com.au

#32 get a few, there's about 8 to 10 all together front and back, 4 or 6 should be good.
Looks like a ABS module, I think you have to have the dealership bleed the system after you replace, might as well let them do the whole thing I can't see it taking more than 30 minutes to replace the washer's, might as well do a fluid change while you're at it.

 

[atomsplitter]

ABS systems are tricky because the integrated braking system affects more than one brake caliper. It would be probably in your best interest to have the dealer deal with it, you can screw up the braking if done wrong.

 

[Wdugan9080]

ABS systems are tricky because the integrated braking system affects more than one brake caliper. It would be probably be in your best interest to havde the dealer seal with it, you can screw up the braking if done wrong.

That's why I'm glad I don't have it , 08 R3T changing fluid easy pezzy. No ABS, I would want to bypass that.
But the problems with older bikes, had mine out over the weekend and twice it just shut down while driving, let the clutch out one and the back wheel locked up, thought I seized the motor for a second, stopped and it started right up, so I've been looking around on hear, I see people saying it maybe the TPS, or stepper motor, but I also read the ignition switch or the side stand switch, I'm getting like 26 mpg so I think I'm going to go back to the old tune and adjust the TPS, and stepper and spray some contact cleaner in the ignition switch and check the connection block, and if all that fails I'll replace the stand switch, I happen to have a used one from pinwall, I also have a used TPS I can try, might have a used stepper too. It's starting a little slower, have to take a couple to a few starting sequences, pushing the button, before it starts, last year started right up, so I'll keep you guys informed if I find it, I don't think it's the neutral switch or clutch switch cause that wouldn't shut it down all of a sudden unless the stand is down. I think the last time I set the TPS it was a little jumpy, so after I change the tune back if that doesn't work I'll change the TPS.
I think I have the penner tune, I don't think the adaptation completed, not sure, but it should adapt after 15 minutes of riding and it ran fine after the change a few thousand miles ago. I don't know but I know it's really rich, may get a really Dyno tuned at the shop. Whatever tune it is, it increased the power meter on a my bottom very noticeable
I think I'll want to request the secondaries stay open, I think that was the biggest difference, all I have is TOR's, K&N air box stock replacement, and de-cat.
I got it last year with the TOR's and did the other 2 and a Tune ECU, Myself.
Keep your fingers crossed I don't have to push it or have it towed too far, ran fine all the way home like 40 mile.
Hope you all have a good day, keep it between the lines and stay away from big hard objects, like cars

 

[vicvet]

That's why I'm glad I don't have it , 08 R3T changing fluid easy pezzy. No ABS, I would want to bypass that.
But the problems with older bikes, had mine out over the weekend and twice it just shut down while driving, let the clutch out one and the back wheel locked up, thought I seized the motor for a second, stopped and it started right up, so I've been looking around on hear, I see people saying it maybe the TPS, or stepper motor, but I also read the ignition switch or the side stand switch, I'm getting like 26 mpg so I think I'm going to go back to the old tune and adjust the TPS, and stepper and spray some contact cleaner in the ignition switch and check the connection block, and if all that fails I'll replace the stand switch, I happen to have a used one from pinwall, I also have a used TPS I can try, might have a used stepper too. It's starting a little slower, have to take a couple to a few starting sequences, pushing the button, before it starts, last year started right up, so I'll keep you guys informed if I find it, I don't think it's the neutral switch or clutch switch cause that wouldn't shut it down all of a sudden unless the stand is down. I think the last time I set the TPS it was a little jumpy, so after I change the tune back if that doesn't work I'll change the TPS.
I think I have the penner tune, I don't think the adaptation completed, not sure, but it should adapt after 15 minutes of riding and it ran fine after the change a few thousand miles ago. I don't know but I know it's really rich, may get a really Dyno tuned at the shop. Whatever tune it is, it increased the power meter on a my bottom very noticeable
I think I'll want to request the secondaries stay open, I think that was the biggest difference, all I have is TOR's, K&N air box stock replacement, and de-cat.
I got it last year with the TOR's and did the other 2 and a Tune ECU, Myself.
Keep your fingers crossed I don't have to push it or have it towed too far, ran fine all the way home like 40 mile.
Hope you all have a good day, keep it between the lines and stay away from big hard objects, like cars

I have a post about coughing and sputtering that would be good to post this on that thread. I recently had the same problem and it was a tune that was too lean. I have changed the vacuum hoses, snapped the spark plug connections down tighter, cleaned, crimped the low voltage coil wires. Now fighting with a tune that runs smoother. Going with the TuneECU 20355 original tune and rebalancing the Map's. Hopefully it works. Everything I do, does make it a little better but still not perfect.