Bollocks - Transmission failure.

I used a ball end allen key when doing mine, can't remember clockwise or anti but I recall it was an intuitive thing,
i.e. lever it in the direction that needs the least travel to align the teeth on the primary gear and backlash eliminator.

The basket assy will then slid inwards fully to mesh with main crank gear when these are aligned
 
Thanks guys.

Also reread @idk famous HOW-TO and have advanced.

Not helped by being as blind as a bat close up and due to the clouds - poor lighting. And it being at ground level. I know! - excuses.

Tried to make a tool up but eventually screwdriver very gently inserted. And light levering with a biggish flat blade driver. Teeth fully meshed and oil pump seems correct. Will now drop inner cage in and hand tighten to make sure everything is seated correctly.

I hate bodging.
 
One thing that perturbs is knowing if the oil pump is aligned and engaged.

I'm assuming that as the teeth are fully engaged and the front edge of the shaft nut is flush with the end of the shaft - they must be.



NOT TORQUED DOWN YET. Basically finger tight so the new belville is not compressed at all.

Can't turn the pump shaft by hand and rotating the crank results in a pumpette of oil. But I hate NOT knowing.
 
This to worried me but assumed everything lined up good to go
 
R-III-R Turbo said:
Looks good Chris - Assume you've checked this too
Click to expand...
These two (red) faces were flush (where that sodding big fat washer twixt inner and other cage sits) and there was a visible dip on the inner edge of the splines where the bearing cage is.



wtf does the manual not have photos!. OK I know why (and it is nothing to do with cost), but it's annoying.

My problem right now is I need another pair of hands to torque the nut. I've applied my neighbourś windy tool but the final check needs an assistant.
And I am starting to experience a bit of pain (age strikes) so have stopped for the day, unless I see my neighbour later on.
If not our cleaning lady is here tomorrow and she's strong.
 
Drop it into 5th and hang a weight off the rear brake pedal/get someone to step on the rear brake
The locked/stationary rear wheel will hold the transmission (inc input shaft) static while you horse into the clutch nut on the end of the input shaft.

Have heard of a jam rag being used between crank main gear and the clutch basket primary gear too
 
Bike in gear, with rear brake jammed on, and the the parts won't move, making life easier.

or, use the windy gun to tighten the nut down till it lines up with where it was before it came off - then lock it down with the lock.
 
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