Best parts for this repair

[wjb]

Recently my clutch gave way so I am repairing it and need some advice on the best parts to fix it.
Before I even removed the front cover I noticed that the clutch actuator rod had WAY too much play in it.

So when I got the cover off what I found is that BOTH clutch actuator and pull rod were broken! Not sure how both could break at the same time but here you have it.

I know the pull rod has gone through some revisions over the years so I would like to know the part numbers of the strongest parts to use in this repair. Also to make sure they are compatible with the clutch pressure plate I have. I would appreciate your suggestions.

 

[EasTexRIII]

Recently my clutch gave way so I am repairing it and need some advice on the best parts to fix it.
Before I even removed the front cover I noticed that the clutch actuator rod had WAY too much play in it.

So when I got the cover off what I found is that BOTH clutch actuator and pull rod were broken! Not sure how both could break at the same time but here you have it.

I know the pull rod has gone through some revisions over the years so I would like to know the part numbers of the strongest parts to use in this repair. Also to make sure they are compatible with the clutch pressure plate I have. I would appreciate your suggestions.

Send a PM to @warp9.9 or @R-III-R Turbo

 

[R-III-R Turbo]

Did you find the bits that broke off?

That's a ball bearing pressure plate so you're good there, just get pull rod / clutch lifter piece T1172023.
And T1170041 the clutch lifter shaft.

After replacement it's a case of keeping the clutch cable free play in check, and not holding clutch lever in while running too much and certainly not revving it with clutch lever pulled.

Also, looks like someone was in there before. One of the pressure plate bolts is different than stock/the others.
I would recommend replacing them all with 50mm long versions (for reasons as illustrated below), and careful torqueing them down precisely as per the manual.

 

[wjb]

Thank you so much @R-III-R Turbo for the part numbers and illistrations! Love your Youtube videos too. My engine number is above the 249178 number but it seems to me that the lifter piece is the earlier one with a very small button on top. I'll order the 1172023 lifter, it looks to be a bit beefier. Where do I sorce the 50mm pressure plate bolts? Are they a Triumph part or off the shelf bolts? And how much horsepower do they add? (dyno sheet please)
I did find the broken off lifter button in the oil pan using a magnet, so all parts are accounted for.

 

[Gerald]

Thank you so much @R-III-R Turbo for the part numbers and illistrations! Love your Youtube videos too. My engine number is above the 249178 number but it seems to me that the lifter piece is the earlier one with a very small button on top. I'll order the 1172023 lifter, it looks to be a bit beefier. Where do I sorce the 50mm pressure plate bolts? Are they a Triumph part or off the shelf bolts? And how much horsepower do they add? (dyno sheet please)
I did find the broken off lifter button in the oil pan using a magnet, so all parts are accounted for.

I bought my bolts from Fastenal Co., come in several grades so want to make sure to purchase the better graded bolts. Been awhile so don't have pt. numbers. Fastenal is listed on internet.

 

[wjb]

I received my replacement parts and am about to replace the broken parts and I have a question.
I am wondering how much tension to place on the spring at the end of the clutch lifter shaft. Do I install the shaft 180 degrees out and wind up the spring as I rotate the shaft to the proper orientation for install? Or do I clock the shaft to have a slight amout of tension?
I looked in the manual but could not find the answer.

 

[EasTexRIII]

 

[Ishrub]

The R3Touring is different to the dual headlight Std/Classic/Roadster models and the factory service manual illustrations, the outer lever arm has a alignment dot marks on the lever and the shaft spline end similar to those used on cam timing gears.

 

[wjb]

I want to update all of you about this repair and ask for some advice since I'm still having problems with my clutch.
I was expecting that a broken part was the culprit of my problems but as you can see I had two parts break on my clutch, the lifter piece AND the lifter shaft. I am assuming that the tip of the lifter shaft broke and the resulting leverage of the lifter shaft lifting only one side of the lifter piece caused the lifter piece to break the top of the lifter piece off.

Anyways, I replaced both parts but cannot get the clutch to function correctly. At this point I should mention that I left out the washer that goes on the lifter piece. I found it after I buttoned everything up.

So now the clutch draggs when I put it in gear and is very clunky shifting and is impossible to shift into neutral with the engine running and clutch pulled in. Adjusting the cable to increase lift on the lifter piece and completely disengage the clutch removes all free play in the cable and feels like the clutch arm is preloaded, meaning that the lifter shaft is in contact with the lifter piece, which is bad.
So what do I need to do to fix this thing? The cable is not frayed anywhere and looks to be good. Could it be the absence of the washer? Something else? I have tried adjusting multiple times at the handle bar lever and at the engine cover arm.

 

[TURBO200R4]

i do not know if it will work and if it does how much damage it will do.
the way it is how is the free play
post pictures of the actuator arm on the bottom and with the adjustment position