Altitude Sickness? Nope. Don't think so.

[aviation1972]

Where I live, the ground elevation is 3,800 feet, ( and that's downtown ). In the surrounding area, ground elevation rises in some spots to nearly 6,000 feet, and it's almost always hot here. My R3T runs great, ( as far as I know ). But, what do I know? Perhaps, it could be running much stronger. So, help me out, Rocketeers? I soon plan to upgrade my 2013 R3T, with RamAir, performance exhaust add-ons, and a retune, but in the meantime, what can I do to a stock 2013 R3T to compensate for the altitude, and "maybe" get more power out of the bike? Right now? Before any upgrading? Thanks...

 

[kmrmike]

Your ECU and electronic components(like map sensor) already compensate for altitude among other things. You can add more power by using Powertripps derestricting tune by searching on the site.

 

[Boog]

I believe that no altitude changes are needed on this bike. I iron butted from Virginia to Denver in 2014 en route to Sturgis without any issues in this regard. As a matter of fact, the bike got almost 10 MPG more in Colorado at altitude than it gets down here at sea level.
I think the mods you are already looking at are going to be your best bet for now.
All I did was slip on TORs and added the TORs map; made a noticeable difference in the seat of the pants.
Good luck and stay hydrated out there...

 

[aviation1972]

I believe that no altitude changes are needed on this bike. I iron butted from Virginia to Denver in 2014 en route to Sturgis without any issues in this regard. As a matter of fact, the bike got almost 10 MPG more in Colorado at altitude than it gets down here at sea level.
I think the mods you are already looking at are going to be your best bet for now.
All I did was slip on TORs and added the TORs map; made a noticeable difference in the seat of the pants.
Good luck and stay hydrated out there...

Thank you kmrmike and Boog. The bike runs well. I was just curious that I might be missing something, ( like a few ponies, perhaps ). Thank you both... Russell

 

[Rocket3Pilot]

I believe that no altitude changes are needed on this bike. I iron butted from Virginia to Denver in 2014 en route to Sturgis without any issues in this regard. As a matter of fact, the bike got almost 10 MPG more in Colorado at altitude than it gets down here at sea level.
I think the mods you are already looking at are going to be your best bet for now.
All I did was slip on TORs and added the TORs map; made a noticeable difference in the seat of the pants.
Good luck and stay hydrated out there...

I think almost any bike with electronic ignition is going to automatically compensate for altitude whether it uses MAP sensors or MAF.
There are some cheap gimmick add ons that supposedly give you more power by replacing the temperature sensors, both for cars and bikes. But all they really do is trick the computer into thinking it's a different temperature outside.
Now that I think of it, do they even make cars with carburetors anymore?
I agree with Boog. Get the cable, connect to the ECU with the cable and TuneECU software ( it's free ), there you can open the secondaries 100% and then copy the I1 table (ignition table for 1st gear) to I2 and I3 ( so you're essentially replacing the stock ignition profile for 2nd and 3rd with the one that is stock for 1st ).
BTW I did all the mods you're contemplating one piece at a time and then rode for a while to see if I could recognize any difference, and by far, for me, it was changing the ignition tables! That got my attention! (at least until I put on Paul Bryant headers with a HansO tune) Since then, I haven't stopped grinning!

 

[BigNorm]

I can send you the tune Hanso made for me. I have a stock 2014 R3T. Send me a PM if you are interested.

 

[aviation1972]

Thank you Rocket3Pilot and BigNorm. I don't own the hardware yet, necessary to perform the ignition table copying, and the tuning you have both recommended, ( I also don't possess the confidence in my own knowledge, yet ). I need to buy the "cable". My computer is nowhere near my garage. So, how do I load the tune into the bike? Do I use a flash drive to load from my computer, and then into the bike? Unclear to me. Guess I can watch YouTube, or you all can tell me. Thanks. And, what are the particulars on the exact cable I need.to buy? The other day, I remember reading somewhere, that one type of cable only works with TuneECU, but won't work with TuneBoy, ( or something like that ). And, one program is free, but the other is not? So, I guess TuneBoy must be the one that costs? Is there a reason for that? Is it worth paying for? Is it better than TuneECU? What are your opinions? Thank you. I have a lot to learn. And, BigNorm, I am interested in the HansO tune. Just need to learn "how" to do it. Cable purchase first. Then, I'll be ready to try your suggestions... Russell

 

[BigNorm]

@aviation1972 here is the link to the cable I bought. Diagnostic Interface for TuneECU Motorbikes It is the most recommended cable I've read about here and it doesn't cost that much. If you have an android phone or tablet you can buy the tune ecu ap from the play store. I think it cost me $12. I am a beginner here myself but I can forward a bunch of instructions @EasTexRIII gave me that were extremely helpful. One thing I did learn is make sure your phone is fully charged. The TuneEcu cable doesn't charge your phone when it's hooked up. I didn't have any problems and my phone didn't die but it was close.

 

[EasTexRIII]

Thank you Rocket3Pilot and BigNorm. I don't own the hardware yet, necessary to perform the ignition table copying, and the tuning you have both recommended, ( I also don't possess the confidence in my own knowledge, yet ). I need to buy the "cable". My computer is nowhere near my garage. So, how do I load the tune into the bike? Do I use a flash drive to load from my computer, and then into the bike? Unclear to me. Guess I can watch YouTube, or you all can tell me. Thanks. And, what are the particulars on the exact cable I need.to buy? The other day, I remember reading somewhere, that one type of cable only works with TuneECU, but won't work with TuneBoy, ( or something like that ). And, one program is free, but the other is not? So, I guess TuneBoy must be the one that costs? Is there a reason for that? Is it worth paying for? Is it better than TuneECU? What are your opinions? Thank you. I have a lot to learn. And, BigNorm, I am interested in the HansO tune. Just need to learn "how" to do it. Cable purchase first. Then, I'll be ready to try your suggestions... Russell

+1 on the post from BigNorm - Get the Lonelec cable from the link he posted - there are older posts from some of the guys here that complained of the cable from "Amazon" not working or only sometimes working - The Lonelec cable works & it comes with a free adapter to plug into Android devices - If you are computer challenged as I am, the Android version is simpler than the windows version. The windows is free, Android @ $12 bucks but worth it for the ease of use IMO. you can get an Andriod Tab for $99 also very well worth it because you can do many tasks for the Bike other than just download tunes. You can read & clear error codes on the computer, set fan to come on at lower temps if you desire, correct speedo %, balance the throttle bodies, adjust TPS, and many other things.
If you do any of those things the cost of the tab would pay for itself by eliminating dealership fees to have done.
If I can use it, ANYBODY can use it

 

[BigNorm]

Just for your info I installed my tune with my phone. I would like a tablet eventually for this though so I can actually read the tables and make adjustments as I learn more about this. You will be able to adjust your throttle bodies though. It would be nice to be able to zoom in and see the actual numbers on the big graphs but I'm totally happy for the cost of 12 dollars I have TuneECU on my phone.