Undo slightly the two bolts that hold the instrument panel to the handlebars (might need to remove the bimini windscreen on GT to access the bolts). Rotate the cluster so it would sit higher, tighten the bolts. Basically, rotate the dash base at handlebars so the cluster, even by the "neck," cannot be adjusted any lower than your normal viewing position, and tighten at that level. You'd be able to turn the cluster up (in case of sun) by the neck, but not any lower than your normal viewing position, thus, no more physical sinking past what you consider the normal position. Your normal position should now be the most "sunk" position, past which it cannot be in anyway adjusted lower.
So, the fix is to make the cluster to be in the lowest position for normal viewing and that requires to turn the base on the handlebars. Sorry to be repetitive, it was a weird fix.
How I know? Had the same thing happening when I put in the bar risers, the cluster after the install sat too low, you bring it up by the neck, in a few blocks it would start to sink down and down.. Really puzzled me, as it was not sinking before the risers. I tried to figure out what was now different. Overall, even on my brand new bike the dash would sink because it was no longer aligned properly, as I rotated handlebars during the risers installation and did not adjust the dash angle on the base but only by the neck. The neck would not hold it higher up by itself over a single ride. It is a heavy dash and the neck tension is useless, so to speak.
PS: To adjust, pay attention to witch bolts. It is the two bolts that are seen by looking from the front of the bike (under the handlebar on that cluster base that wraps the handlebars like a small fist), not the side axis ones on the "neck".
> The 2 hex screws at the pivot point seem to be tight.
Wrong bolts. Prior, I also adjusted these, did nothing, wasn't the solution. Making the neck more stiff was utterly useless, the dash would still sink. But adjusting the base did the trick.
