turbo / supercharge / possible group buy?

Tuning boosted bikes is no different in true fact than a N/A machine.

A bad tune, or a failure of some part of the efi system could cost you a 2 to 3K motor in a split second on a boosted motor.


2 - 3K motor, that is a tiny bit of the cost in my motor, chasing BIG hp especially forced hurts the wallet (a lot).
 
I would think once one starts chassing Big Hp a figure of $20000- $30000 would have been spent on their engines ,especially the guys in the early years when alot off R@D was done , mistakes are made and things dont always work out the first time.
 
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Dude since you plumbing does not support the addition of a inter cooler you should add a alcohol spray and use windshield wiper fluid the 50/50 stuff. Just set it up with a couple pressure switches to stage it.

Interesting... I will look into that.


A little lean on a boosted motor and your at best toasting the rings and blowing your oil out the breather, or at worst scragged the pistons/crank/rods/block. A bad tune, or a failure of some part of the efi system could cost you a 2 to 3K motor in a split second on a boosted motor.

Here's what I'm doing to be as safe as possible with my turbo. Wasn't going to post any pics until I was done with all my mods but what the heck.

The AEM failsafe gauge in the middle looks at the AFR with respect to boost, plots a curve and allows a window to be set in which to be OK. If the AFR goes outside of this predefined window at any boost level it triggers an alarm output which is hooked up to the Dynojet PCV map input switch to switch to a second ignition map (a Dynojet ignition module piggybacks the PCV). This map will pull out up to 20 degrees of timing. The first map also pulls out a standard 1 degree of timing per psi of boost or whatever my dyno guy decides to do when tuning.

The alarm trigger on the failsafe gauge also energizes a solenoid that switches the boost signal from going to a manual boost controller which will be set to my desired full boost setting (10-12 psi) or from going straight to the turbo controller spring which is 3 psi. This cuts the boost to its minimum setting if the AFR goes outside the window. Under regular conditions I can also select minimum and maximum boost setting with the horn switch. I've wired in a time delay relay so that if the button is pressed for less than 1/3 of a second it just energizes and latches in the boost solenoid. Hitting it again will unlatch the circuit. Pressing the button for more than 1/3 of a second will sound the horn. The purple LED above the PLX gauge below the speedo and tach is lit when in max boost so I always know what setting the boost is at.

The fuel pressure gauge lets me keep tabs on the rising rate fuel pressure regulator. I should see a 1 to 2 psi increase in fuel pressure for every psi of boost. If not it's time to troubleshoot. My goal.... no more busted pistons!!!

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Only way I would consider running a turbo on a R3 is if there was no way to make more power on motor.

While in general I would agree and if I was to do it again then yes I would go for internals given the options out there now. Back when We built up my turbo there wasn't much development happening. My bike has covered over 40,000kms in turbo form and the top end has never been touched. Yep ok I have broken gearbox and spat a couple of lower bearings due to big torque but any high HP bike could do the same. Riding it like you stole it on high boost comes at a cost. In all the turbo is awesome, very rideable, good on fuel and on low boost very under stressed... Oh and in my case the the turbo is under the bike so somewhat stealthy....
 
Interesting... I will look into that.




Here's what I'm doing to be as safe as possible with my turbo. Wasn't going to post any pics until I was done with all my mods but what the heck.

The AEM failsafe gauge in the middle looks at the AFR with respect to boost, plots a curve and allows a window to be set in which to be OK. If the AFR goes outside of this predefined window at any boost level it triggers an alarm output which is hooked up to the Dynojet PCV map input switch to switch to a second ignition map (a Dynojet ignition module piggybacks the PCV). This map will pull out up to 20 degrees of timing. The first map also pulls out a standard 1 degree of timing per psi of boost or whatever my dyno guy decides to do when tuning.

The alarm trigger on the failsafe gauge also energizes a solenoid that switches the boost signal from going to a manual boost controller which will be set to my desired full boost setting (10-12 psi) or from going straight to the turbo controller spring which is 3 psi. This cuts the boost to its minimum setting if the AFR goes outside the window. Under regular conditions I can also select minimum and maximum boost setting with the horn switch. I've wired in a time delay relay so that if the button is pressed for less than 1/3 of a second it just energizes and latches in the boost solenoid. Hitting it again will unlatch the circuit. Pressing the button for more than 1/3 of a second will sound the horn. The purple LED above the PLX gauge below the speedo and tach is lit when in max boost so I always know what setting the boost is at.

The fuel pressure gauge lets me keep tabs on the rising rate fuel pressure regulator. I should see a 1 to 2 psi increase in fuel pressure for every psi of boost. If not it's time to troubleshoot. My goal.... no more busted pistons!!!

Now that is very cool, extreme certainly but prevention is better than the next option...
 
I plan on keeping my supercharged R3 STDl If I go for more hp on the Touring, I will take it to Boost is Good and let them do the whole thing. Add-on kits whether they be Super chargers or turbo's, the work/expense only begins with the purchase of the kit. And, you will be lucky if you don't melt pistons before you get it dialed in.
 
I plan on keeping my supercharged R3 STDl If I go for more hp on the Touring, I will take it to Boost is Good and let them do the whole thing. Add-on kits whether they be Super chargers or turbo's, the work/expense only begins with the purchase of the kit. And, you will be lucky if you don't melt pistons before you get it dialed in.
I havnt seen anyone run any outstanding 1/4 mile times or speeds with the turbo or supercharged Rockets are there any posted any where ?
 
Art, I work on quite a few turbo/supercharged machines,not all R3s. Not one of them that I'm aware is has been down the 1/4. The interest in drag racing here is all but zero. We have a country about the same size as you with six state borders I think. There is some drag racing in the eastern states,and maybe two 1/8 tracks in Sth Aust.im also sure many r3 owners outside Aust don,t drag race. They just want to have Fun.
 
Art, I work on quite a few turbo/supercharged machines,not all R3s. Not one of them that I'm aware is has been down the 1/4. The interest in drag racing here is all but zero. We have a country about the same size as you with six state borders I think. There is some drag racing in the eastern states,and maybe two 1/8 tracks in Sth Aust.im also sure many r3 owners outside Aust don,t drag race. They just want to have Fun.
YES true its good they are all street bikes I agree I would like to see some 1/4 mile results for comparison and Im sure they have fun racing on the street as we all do over here as all the Rockets we race are street bikes built for everyday riding and we have lots of drag strips to use when we want to have safe fun and beat up on some sports bikes
 
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YES true its good they are all street bikes I agree I would like to see some 1/4 mile results for comparison and Im sure they have fun racing on the street as we all do over here as all the Rockets we race are street bikes built for everyday riding and we have lots of drag strips to use when we want to have safe fun and beat up on some sports bikes
Safe fun, not a safer place to open it than the drag strip, agree with you big time!
 
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